gon3r

looks good steve. aren't there some kind of NHRA or SCCA specs or standards for roll cages though? just curious.

MikeJ-2009

This roll bar kit "meets or exceeds NHRA rules". :P Basically it's just "the main hoop can't be more than " " inches from here, ect. This is the mild steel, with the correct thickness, and mig welded. The only thing I had to worry about was mounting the seat in the correct position to meet all of those "this far from" rules. (Which I haven't done yet.

I tacked the main hoop in, then the rear bars, then broke the main hoop off and leaned it forward until the rear bars came up and destroyed my headliner. That's how I got the welds 360 on the top bars. :P

I actually have the block, head, and tranny for this thing, but it's packed away so I don't have to think about it. The chassis ----, bodywork, and paint aren't going to cost much, so I'm not worrying about the motor until all of that's done.

tranceminister

So MIG welding will be alright as far as passing a tech inspection/saftey regulations? I didn't know if it needed to be TIG welded, but I MIG'd my mount plates onto mine as well. Looks damn good Steve, cars really coming along and I like the progress updates.

boosted_hatch_216

looks good. do you have any mor pics of the dash? are you gonna go aluminum or carbon fiber or just gutted stock?

MikeJ-2009

If it's mild steel, you mig weld it. If it's chromoly, you have to tig weld it.

I bought this during the "$30 off" week, so the kit was $139 and with shipping it came out to $215 shipped.

I'm going to be keeping the stock dash. Right now my wallet says "you will have a crazy street car in 2009", but ideally at the end I would like to compete in NHRA SFWD, which is a "street class", so keeping things like the dash/doorpanels/carpet go along with my nhra dream, I just have to convince my wallet over the next couple years.

HMT-Admin

did you even clean the paint off first? or how about the silicone in the corners of the main hope? Thats the part that takes the longest, is just prepping the chassis.. It looks like you just set the plates in there and went to town, hah.

The way we put cages/roll bars in is. Clean all the paint where the plates are going to go, Drill 4 holes in the plates, then put another plate on the bottom and bolt them in first (so this sucks the floor up to the bottom of the plate) then weld it. Honestly welding to honda floorboards is scary ----, the metal is so thin and half the time your just melting the floor.

MikeJ-2009

yes, I cleaned the floor where the plates go. I took the sound deadening off, and then ground it down to bare metal. I only did it enough to weld the plates on though. ---- doing the whole thing.
My first roll bar (autopower kit on old car) had the bolt together plates. Welding to the floor is definately scary ----, because you see just how thin it is, but the ---- isn't going anywhere. The two lower bars in the main hoop don't aren't required, and neither are plates.




Someone should do some floor strength testing with a junkyard car or one they're parting out. I think the bolting it would make me feel safer, but I doubt the floor is going anywhere.

Honda16hb

there are little circle things underneath my car about 1.25" diameter, I thought one was a lift point and I put my scissor jack throught he floor of my car, it's not very strong.

MikeJ-2009

Kyle, those are drain plugs or something. :P