turborat

Hi there

I have a 91 5.0 Mustang notchback.

Stock 5.0 with bolt ons, intake, throttle body, headers, catback, etc etc etc

Anyways... I've basically done the flipped tuned shorty setup, and Im wondering if anyone would know what would be the most practical way to manage it.

Also, anyone know the safe limits of stock roller 302? I've heard rumors of 9psi... but... sounds a little steep to me.

Problem: Im not great with electrical (car was SUPPOSED to stay stock) so the wiring of a stand alone FMU would be a bit tough, second... I dont have a dyno in my area.

Any suggestions? Im sorta SOL and JWF at this point. Any help would be great.

Darkelvis

9 psi means nothing. 9 psi on a small turbo is much different than 9 psi on a large turbo. whoever told you "it'll take 9 psi" is a ------- idiot and should not be listened to.

I'd like to know how anyone would wire a stand alone FMU...please elaborate.

homo

slaminsam

Pulled from Pony down turbo kits page..


Mods & Recommendations for your turbo mustang*

Up to 550hp
-boost gauge (pretty important)
-255 intank fuel pump
-t-tex inline fuel pump (optional)
-adjustable fuel regulator
-new fuel filter if old
-36# injectors (stock motor up to 450hp)
-42# injectors (heads, intake, throttle body)
-c&l 76mm maf calibrated to what ever size injectors you have (ex. 42# injectors)
-autolite 3924 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35 (4psi to 14psi) 1 heat range colder
-autolite 3923 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35 (14psi plus) 2 heat ranges colder
-msd ignition - either a 6al or a digital 6
-adjustable boost controller
-cosmetic head gaskets
-arp head bolts or studs
- wide band 02 setup for tuning (optional)

Basic start up settings
-set timing at 6*
-set fuel at 40 psi
-premium gas

-if using a manual boost controller leave it all the way closed until you determine your getting all the boost out of the wastegate then slowly turn it up to your desired boost level.

Start up your car and warm it up. Then go for a part throttle drive with the car for a couple of miles while watching the gauges (oil pressure. coolant temperature, etc...). Under part throttle the car should run good and should have no problems (smoke, bucking, breaking up, etc...)

Once you feel the car is driveling good, go for a high gear wot run (4th gear for a stick, 3rd gear in a auto * not od). Now just get on the gas for a little bit while tring to look at the boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge if you have it and for detonation. Detonation sounds like a can full of marbles for anyone who is not familiar with the sound. Now do a longer run on the car and then cut the ignition off and roll to a stop so you can check the plugs.

I like to check my #5 and #6 plugs. Pull the plug out and look at it. Is it white (lean)? Is it tan (good)? Is it dark (rich) Ok now its time for you to decide what to do. if its rich you can add timing. If its lean you can add fuel pressure. The goal it to have a nice tan plug. yes lean is mean but it can also mean a fine line between changing a head gasket or not.

* with more octane you can run more timing to get more power. The above is a nice starting point for pump premium gas

Locked Timing vs Non Locked Timing
locked timing is where you pull the timing spout out and set the timing to lets say 18* and leave it just like that. You do not put the spout back in. You can set it to more than 18* but that's just a starting point. This is a good way of running at the track under wot, but it sucks on the street. Your start up will be rough and your part throttle will be rough.

geofarace

still sounds like BS

Darkelvis

yes....please do exactly what that guy said...he obviously knows everything about the subject.

Scott-EP

Damn, some people should have to send their posts through someone that knows what they are talking about before just posting it up for any noob to blow their car up

turborat

Wow...


This is why I asked.


I dont know anything of forced induction this is why I asked. If i knew everything, I wouldnt have...


Anyways, small turbos vs big turbos. The ones that are currently awaiting install, are from a 300zx TT.... im not sure what exactly they are. I know they will work (Physically have to as far as I know) but, apparently if they're too small they wont run at higher RPM? I dunno, a little insight would be really helpful.

stitch

300zx TT used t-25's, which are small. Not sure what your goals are but they will probably run out of air ~400hp. I while back i saw a build with a twin turbo 5.0l and they used megasquirt to control the fuel. They spliced right into the main harness which made for a clean install.

cobz436

something i heard a long time ago, but to use a turbo from a big deisel, like chev 2500 or something, but i suppose that'd be a single turbo set up.....however, that coulda been bs i heard...just puttin it out there

txdohczc

t25s will run out of air at idle they can hardly keep up with a d15 let alone an engine >4x the size