my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
06-12-2006, 04:07 PM
#61
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
Originally Posted by 91efate
start on my pcv system........hmt style Jb madness.
from there it will go to a custom catch can and then to the exh. slash cut. im going to canton racing next week, they're gonna make a custom breather can for me, i like this method better because getting rid of the black pcv box free up flow, the box is very restrictive and it was clogged with chunks of ----.
from there it will go to a custom catch can and then to the exh. slash cut. im going to canton racing next week, they're gonna make a custom breather can for me, i like this method better because getting rid of the black pcv box free up flow, the box is very restrictive and it was clogged with chunks of ----.
Im currently building a D16a6 and i had a question. When you ordr bearing from honda do you get 2 in a bag or just one? i ask cause i never have and the guy im building this motor for doesnt care wether they are clevite bearings or honda. I honestly dont feel comfortable using clevites of all the smae size if its gonna be a tight fit. But then again i wont know until i measure it with plasti gauge. Can re use the bearing off the original rods to measure or will that give me a false reading in clearance due to them being used?
i had all browns except for one green bearing. on most of the mains and rod journals
06-12-2006, 07:02 PM
#62
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
the bearings are sold per piece which is why they are so expensive @ $7-9 each and you need 10 for the mains and 8 for the rods and 2 thrust bearings. you are better off plasitgauging the old bearing(clean them up good) then see what the clearances are then order accordingly. i just took the bearing codes from the crank and block and they fit perfect(i had the crank micro polished to make sure its smooth and perfect round) the rods for my crowers were sucky though. everyone said they are honda b greens but they turned out to be honda Bpinks for mine.
and for the pcv, you don't have to use the black box, just replace it with a firewall mounted breather tank/can with a fiter on the top, im going from the fitting that i put on the block to a breather tank, then the other nipple on the breather to a -10an line that connects to my dp slashcut so the exh flow pulls vacuum from the crankcase where the box used to be.not to the intake mani like you said, delete the pcv valve and hose that were routed to the intake.
hope that helps, thanks for the compliments, i hope this thing rips
and for the pcv, you don't have to use the black box, just replace it with a firewall mounted breather tank/can with a fiter on the top, im going from the fitting that i put on the block to a breather tank, then the other nipple on the breather to a -10an line that connects to my dp slashcut so the exh flow pulls vacuum from the crankcase where the box used to be.not to the intake mani like you said, delete the pcv valve and hose that were routed to the intake.
hope that helps, thanks for the compliments, i hope this thing rips
Originally Posted by julio_bOOstamante
NIce! I might have to do that too. Ccan you just use anything for the box? i mean as long as it has the line from the back of the block and the other going to the intake manifold?
Im currently building a D16a6 and i had a question. When you ordr bearing from honda do you get 2 in a bag or just one? i ask cause i never have and the guy im building this motor for doesnt care wether they are clevite bearings or honda. I honestly dont feel comfortable using clevites of all the smae size if its gonna be a tight fit. But then again i wont know until i measure it with plasti gauge. Can re use the bearing off the original rods to measure or will that give me a false reading in clearance due to them being used?
i had all browns except for one green bearing. on most of the mains and rod journals
Im currently building a D16a6 and i had a question. When you ordr bearing from honda do you get 2 in a bag or just one? i ask cause i never have and the guy im building this motor for doesnt care wether they are clevite bearings or honda. I honestly dont feel comfortable using clevites of all the smae size if its gonna be a tight fit. But then again i wont know until i measure it with plasti gauge. Can re use the bearing off the original rods to measure or will that give me a false reading in clearance due to them being used?
i had all browns except for one green bearing. on most of the mains and rod journals
06-12-2006, 08:17 PM
#63
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
Originally Posted by 91efate
the bearings are sold per piece which is why they are so expensive @ $7-9 each and you need 10 for the mains and 8 for the rods and 2 thrust bearings. you are better off plasitgauging the old bearing(clean them up good) then see what the clearances are then order accordingly. i just took the bearing codes from the crank and block and they fit perfect(i had the crank micro polished to make sure its smooth and perfect round) the rods for my crowers were sucky though. everyone said they are honda b greens but they turned out to be honda Bpinks for mine.
and for the pcv, you don't have to use the black box, just replace it with a firewall mounted breather tank/can with a fiter on the top, im going from the fitting that i put on the block to a breather tank, then the other nipple on the breather to a -10an line that connects to my dp slashcut so the exh flow pulls vacuum from the crankcase where the box used to be.not to the intake mani like you said, delete the pcv valve and hose that were routed to the intake.
hope that helps, thanks for the compliments, i hope this thing rips
and for the pcv, you don't have to use the black box, just replace it with a firewall mounted breather tank/can with a fiter on the top, im going from the fitting that i put on the block to a breather tank, then the other nipple on the breather to a -10an line that connects to my dp slashcut so the exh flow pulls vacuum from the crankcase where the box used to be.not to the intake mani like you said, delete the pcv valve and hose that were routed to the intake.
hope that helps, thanks for the compliments, i hope this thing rips
06-12-2006, 08:28 PM
#64
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,800
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
Originally Posted by julio_bOOstamante
Cool. im still not certain i understand the slashcut method. maybe a diagram would help me.
just kidding, here's a ghetto hotrex style diagram
06-12-2006, 08:36 PM
#65
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
Originally Posted by ****
basically what you do is cut slashes in a garden hose on one end, and route it from the tailpipe to the front seat of your car.
just kidding, here's a ghetto hotrex style diagram
just kidding, here's a ghetto hotrex style diagram
06-12-2006, 11:29 PM
#70
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
lol i agree thats some front page material that will kill of alot of noobish misconceptions. you can run a check valve if you want but i don't see how it would matter , i mean exhaust gases ran backwards due to back firing or something i'd think that the breather tank would work as a spark arrestor but i'm gonna run a check valve just to be on the safe side.yea i need a new shirt and a creeper for home because i always lay on my back and get dirty
