My build... pics or too many pics.
04-08-2005, 05:29 PM
#1
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,194
My build... pics or too many pics.
Last month I finished building another engine in the Suzuki. I had to take it out because it bent a couple of connecting rods by some ignition experiments. It was running strong for 2 years with 2 different turbos, at 10psi and later 15psi and sometimes 18psi.
Here's a quick overview.
Engine goes out:
Some random metal object I picked up from the oil pan.
One rod doesn't look very straight, and it has knocked a piece out of the sleeve:
I spy some head gasket blow by as well
Yes the rod is definitely not straight...
So I started building another motor. I cut one of my old pistons apart to have a model
to go by when modifying the next set of pistons. My old ones had 2mm shaved off the top, giving 9.0:1 compression but the new ones have a circle cut out of the crowns giving 8.7:1 compression. Stock is 9.5:1.
Freshly turned piston:
Bottom end assembled:
ARP head studs installed and the holes in the block countersunk as much as the studs allow:
Head tightened down:
Yes, that's tig welding on the intake manifold flange because this used to be a carb head and the EFI manifold has cutouts for the injectors.
Camshaft is in:
Timebelt and cam cover on, ready for use.
CAP 4 puck clutch in place, that ----------er is hell to drive on the street on such a small engine (1.6L) because it grips really hard.
Almost there:
It's a tight fit:
Parts list:
Suzuki G16B SOHC 16 valve (bore*stroke 75*90mm)
Stock everything, modified stock pistons, ARP head studs, mildly ported head.
Homemade equal length manifold (mild steel weld els)
Garrett VNT25 made for a 1989 Dodge Daytona.
Some modified water to air chargecooler.
Audi 5000 wastegate because the VNT doesn't flow enough to keep the boost steady at high rpms.
Stock intake manifold, modified to take 8 injectors
MegaSquirt'N'Spark ECU
MSD 6A ignition amplifier
MSD tach adapter
Drivetrain:
Stock Suzuki gearbox and transfer case.
Toyota Hilux rear axle with 5.71:1 gears and a torque biasing differential, 30 spline axles. 6 lug rims.
Toyota Hilux front axle with individual suspension. 5.71:1 and open differential. 5 lug rims.
35" tall tires on 10.5" wide rims in the front and 12" wide rims in the rear.
Only running 8psi right now because I have busted a bearing in the transfer case, not sure if I'll be able to fix that before I park the car as I'm moving to Ireland on a job there.
It's not exactly a fast car, probably about 190hp at 16psi, but for an off road truck it is very quick, and on the glaciers it is a lot of fun to drive flat out. I sometimes go full throttle for several minutes in heavy snow.
Here's a quick overview.
Engine goes out:
Some random metal object I picked up from the oil pan.
One rod doesn't look very straight, and it has knocked a piece out of the sleeve:
I spy some head gasket blow by as well
Yes the rod is definitely not straight...
So I started building another motor. I cut one of my old pistons apart to have a model
to go by when modifying the next set of pistons. My old ones had 2mm shaved off the top, giving 9.0:1 compression but the new ones have a circle cut out of the crowns giving 8.7:1 compression. Stock is 9.5:1.
Freshly turned piston:
Bottom end assembled:
ARP head studs installed and the holes in the block countersunk as much as the studs allow:
Head tightened down:
Yes, that's tig welding on the intake manifold flange because this used to be a carb head and the EFI manifold has cutouts for the injectors.
Camshaft is in:
Timebelt and cam cover on, ready for use.
CAP 4 puck clutch in place, that ----------er is hell to drive on the street on such a small engine (1.6L) because it grips really hard.
Almost there:
It's a tight fit:
Parts list:
Suzuki G16B SOHC 16 valve (bore*stroke 75*90mm)
Stock everything, modified stock pistons, ARP head studs, mildly ported head.
Homemade equal length manifold (mild steel weld els)
Garrett VNT25 made for a 1989 Dodge Daytona.
Some modified water to air chargecooler.
Audi 5000 wastegate because the VNT doesn't flow enough to keep the boost steady at high rpms.
Stock intake manifold, modified to take 8 injectors
MegaSquirt'N'Spark ECU
MSD 6A ignition amplifier
MSD tach adapter
Drivetrain:
Stock Suzuki gearbox and transfer case.
Toyota Hilux rear axle with 5.71:1 gears and a torque biasing differential, 30 spline axles. 6 lug rims.
Toyota Hilux front axle with individual suspension. 5.71:1 and open differential. 5 lug rims.
35" tall tires on 10.5" wide rims in the front and 12" wide rims in the rear.
Only running 8psi right now because I have busted a bearing in the transfer case, not sure if I'll be able to fix that before I park the car as I'm moving to Ireland on a job there.
It's not exactly a fast car, probably about 190hp at 16psi, but for an off road truck it is very quick, and on the glaciers it is a lot of fun to drive flat out. I sometimes go full throttle for several minutes in heavy snow.
04-08-2005, 06:04 PM
#5
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,194
Re: My build... pics or too many pics.
She's running fine but two things are pissing me off. A clamp on the exhaust is rattling like hell (most annoying sound) and the transfer case probably has a busted bearing that is very loud so I'm kind of scared at giving it full throttle and full boost right now thinking it will probably blow up the transfer case output shaft.
The rod failed because I was doing experiments with spark control that didn't work very well when the weather got cold and the battery got flat, so it would fire the spark at a very critical time and bend the rod because the pressure had to go somewhere, or at least that's my theory. I first noticed it however when I was driving, then I gave it full throttle and bang it lost all power to friction and started making this awful noise.
Fast? I took it to the drag strip last year with a 5.38:1 drive ratio and open differential in the rear, a gremlin in the engine management system shutting it down always at the end of first gear and taking like half a second to recover, bad plug wires so there was a slight misfire on one cylinder and a terrible wastegate (boost was bouncing from 12psi to 18psi and back down very fast) In one run I managed to shift into second gear right before the ecu restarted. Did 15.8 with a 2.3sec 60ft burning the hell out of the right rear tire, 10.0 1/8 at 66.6mph and 15.8 at 83.3mph 1/4.
I'm positive it will do low 15's at 15psi-ish boost with current setup. Probably well into 14's on stock-ish sized tires (a set of these offroad tires weigh about 200lbs with rims) Car weighs about 3100lbs with driver, and due to it's high ground clearance the aerodynamics really kick in after 60mph
I ran it once on my old setup in 2003 with 225x75R15 snow radial tires. Tiny K14 at 10psi dropping down when getting above 4500rpm. Did a 16.4 at 80mph in the 1/4 and 2.11 sec 60ft (very little wheelspin when launched right)
It's ok considering that the stock time is like high 18 seconds or something.
Max boost I did put on the old engine was about 25psi with the VNT25.
The rod failed because I was doing experiments with spark control that didn't work very well when the weather got cold and the battery got flat, so it would fire the spark at a very critical time and bend the rod because the pressure had to go somewhere, or at least that's my theory. I first noticed it however when I was driving, then I gave it full throttle and bang it lost all power to friction and started making this awful noise.
Fast? I took it to the drag strip last year with a 5.38:1 drive ratio and open differential in the rear, a gremlin in the engine management system shutting it down always at the end of first gear and taking like half a second to recover, bad plug wires so there was a slight misfire on one cylinder and a terrible wastegate (boost was bouncing from 12psi to 18psi and back down very fast) In one run I managed to shift into second gear right before the ecu restarted. Did 15.8 with a 2.3sec 60ft burning the hell out of the right rear tire, 10.0 1/8 at 66.6mph and 15.8 at 83.3mph 1/4.
I'm positive it will do low 15's at 15psi-ish boost with current setup. Probably well into 14's on stock-ish sized tires (a set of these offroad tires weigh about 200lbs with rims) Car weighs about 3100lbs with driver, and due to it's high ground clearance the aerodynamics really kick in after 60mph
I ran it once on my old setup in 2003 with 225x75R15 snow radial tires. Tiny K14 at 10psi dropping down when getting above 4500rpm. Did a 16.4 at 80mph in the 1/4 and 2.11 sec 60ft (very little wheelspin when launched right)
It's ok considering that the stock time is like high 18 seconds or something.
Max boost I did put on the old engine was about 25psi with the VNT25.
04-08-2005, 07:33 PM
#6
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 0
Re: My build... pics or too many pics.
hardcore. that is one crazy way to lower your compression. aren't you worried about the structural integrity of the pistons? how much did you face off them? did you run a compression test afterward to see if there was much of a difference between the pistons?
great pics and writeup- we need more of these!
great pics and writeup- we need more of these!
04-08-2005, 11:14 PM
#8
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,785
Re: My build... pics or too many pics.
A boosted Sidekick/Tracker! Now thats hardcore. I used to have one and that thing could take anything except 4wd clutch drops 
. Did it once and broke both front locking hubs. I love those things though. Nice setup and pics.
. Did it once and broke both front locking hubs. I love those things though. Nice setup and pics.
04-09-2005, 12:31 AM
#9
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,194
Re: My build... pics or too many pics.
Oh I'm not worried about the pistons. I have proven that the pistons are definitely not the weak link in this engine.
Oh and drivetrain... I haven't tried 4wd clutch drops on dry pavement, and I don't think I will. I have not managed to break a stock transmission yet but I have broken the rear pinion 3 times, and the left rear axleshaft once. Motor mounts also suffer badly, I'll have to put a chain on the engine ASAP to keep it inside the engine compartment, wheelstands are not good for the motor mounts. In the last off road trip the engine managed to lift more than an inch and the wastegate dump tube got dented by the oil filter bracket. After that I swapped in a Toyota unit. With the torque biasing differential it hooks very well, in fact I used to be spinning the wheels through third gear on wet and the entire first gear on dry, chirping second gear before I put in the Toyota rear axle with the torque biasing differential. Now it has less wheelspin in first gear on wet than it had in first gear on dry.
I also have a Saab 9000 2.0 turbo, I was thinking maybe some day I'll take the engine out of the Saab and put in the 4x4, but although the Saab engine is strong (it can take 500hp on stock bottom end) I'd prefer something lighter. Perharps a Nissan SR20DET or a Toyota 3S-GTE. I looked into Honda engines (because they're light, cheap and popular) but the fact that they rotate counterclockwise makes them hard to swap into a car with a longitudally mounted engine.
Oh and drivetrain... I haven't tried 4wd clutch drops on dry pavement, and I don't think I will. I have not managed to break a stock transmission yet but I have broken the rear pinion 3 times, and the left rear axleshaft once. Motor mounts also suffer badly, I'll have to put a chain on the engine ASAP to keep it inside the engine compartment, wheelstands are not good for the motor mounts. In the last off road trip the engine managed to lift more than an inch and the wastegate dump tube got dented by the oil filter bracket. After that I swapped in a Toyota unit. With the torque biasing differential it hooks very well, in fact I used to be spinning the wheels through third gear on wet and the entire first gear on dry, chirping second gear before I put in the Toyota rear axle with the torque biasing differential. Now it has less wheelspin in first gear on wet than it had in first gear on dry.
I also have a Saab 9000 2.0 turbo, I was thinking maybe some day I'll take the engine out of the Saab and put in the 4x4, but although the Saab engine is strong (it can take 500hp on stock bottom end) I'd prefer something lighter. Perharps a Nissan SR20DET or a Toyota 3S-GTE. I looked into Honda engines (because they're light, cheap and popular) but the fact that they rotate counterclockwise makes them hard to swap into a car with a longitudally mounted engine.
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