MP5T
06-30-2008, 06:55 PM
#41
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Re: MP5T
Originally Posted by bigdaddyvtec
Lets get one thing clear... Im not sorry about ----, I dont have much in the way of ability to edit what I say, as If I say it; its what I mean.... If you dont like it, I understand... But dont much care... Either way I wont E-pound on you anymore, the car is clean. So is the garage (my personal favorite aspect of your initial post....). You need a bigger turbo on it.... You can make a snail considerably bigger spool just fine... Id like to see a 30r on it personally.
The standard comeback from people that arent making power is that they like how their ---- spools... Or Power isnt everything, well...Theyre retarded... with the built bottom end and ---- you have Id think that there is no reason not to push for north of 400,,, The 30R would get you there... with a VERY nice spool. It appears you have cash, so that shouldnt be the problem.
Like I said, i like different (hence the 600+ 4dr accorsd - civics are played out).... It was your candy *** attitude initially that put me off... That and I really love bashing retards that come on the site with the look at me attitude.
L8R
Spiker
The standard comeback from people that arent making power is that they like how their ---- spools... Or Power isnt everything, well...Theyre retarded... with the built bottom end and ---- you have Id think that there is no reason not to push for north of 400,,, The 30R would get you there... with a VERY nice spool. It appears you have cash, so that shouldnt be the problem.
Like I said, i like different (hence the 600+ 4dr accorsd - civics are played out).... It was your candy *** attitude initially that put me off... That and I really love bashing retards that come on the site with the look at me attitude.
L8R
Spiker
I never said I was happy or satisified with the HP, I only said that I was not changing the Turbo. I was running an EIC-2 and now I am putting in a Haltech, the EIC2 was PIG RICH and was robbing me the ability to lean out the AFR and run better. The bottom end ETC is built and I am not worried about it at all. The trans has been replaced with 323GT gears, Taller 5th gear and Forged. The Driveshafts are upgraded as well. The plan is to make more HP first just with a tune alone, get it reliable and then think about future upgrades.
I have calculated that the GT-28RS is capable of flowing beyond 370 WHP, mated with the huge Plate and Bar that I have up front, I am not worried with loss due to running the turbo hard. The haltech has Two IAT sensors, one after the turbo and one after the FMIC. I plan to test this platform to see what I can get out of it B4 swapping out the 28... I just had the center cartridge remanufactured, so might as well see what it can take before giving up.
06-30-2008, 07:37 PM
#44
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
Re: MP5T
I agree Spike R does look to be a healthy fat kid. Tis is true. But if you have seen the picture where he looks the one of the Olsen Twins's distant brother, you would understand why we dont make that much fun of his FatNess. Lol he is a grumpy tart at times but after you get past his bad side he is alright. Now if you get past my RETARD DRUNKEN moments you will find that im still retarded just not drunk. Lol. Any who you do need a biggeR snail. Holset H1C is the vitamin that motor needs.
04-23-2009, 06:37 AM
#45
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
ECU_manager_Sport200_a.png?t=1240486424
Back-Story, The ECU Needs a Cam and a Crank sensor to run the fuel and ignition mode I need to run. The ECU Came out in Febuary, It is replacing the E8 and E12, It's called the Sport 1000 and Sport 2000.
Old Maps will not help, They do not apply.
I will have to make a new Cam Gear or Modify one to only have one magnet. That magnet has to occur 5 teeth before the Crank sensor event,
Here was the traffic back and forth.
Back-Story, The ECU Needs a Cam and a Crank sensor to run the fuel and ignition mode I need to run. The ECU Came out in Febuary, It is replacing the E8 and E12, It's called the Sport 1000 and Sport 2000.
Old Maps will not help, They do not apply.
I will have to make a new Cam Gear or Modify one to only have one magnet. That magnet has to occur 5 teeth before the Crank sensor event,
Here was the traffic back and forth.
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T
(Edit: Apparently the E6 has a setting called "MAZDA A" which did everything for the FS engine automatically)
I am currently setting up a 1000 on a Mazda 2.0 L FS
I am running 4 Coils Direct and 4 injectors Sequential.
I have a 36 -1 Crank Position Sensor on a Magnetic
and a Magnetic Sensor on the Cam Gear that has three triggers. One by itself and two opposite and close to each other.
I understand that the setting I should use is likely 36 -1 + 1 Home but I do not understand how it will know how to trigger the injectors.
As I understand, it has to use both the fire the injectors and the coils because it's a 4 stroke. But where can I adjust for the angle of the Cam sensor, and how do I make it disregard the other magnets.
I have read and understand about the missing tooth on the crank, and understand the offset. It's brilliant. Can someone please shed some insight on how the second input is used.
Do I have to drill out the other magnets so there is only one that can be sensed by the haltech? If so is there an offset like the crank sensor from the event, or does it simply know that fuel happens 360 degrees from ignition.
I do not see a 36 -1 + 3 Home...
I am pretty technical, but I am in uncharted territory as being the only one to do this to a fully striped Protege engine..
Cam Position Magnets (3 Each)
Crank Position 36 -1
I am currently setting up a 1000 on a Mazda 2.0 L FS
I am running 4 Coils Direct and 4 injectors Sequential.
I have a 36 -1 Crank Position Sensor on a Magnetic
and a Magnetic Sensor on the Cam Gear that has three triggers. One by itself and two opposite and close to each other.
I understand that the setting I should use is likely 36 -1 + 1 Home but I do not understand how it will know how to trigger the injectors.
As I understand, it has to use both the fire the injectors and the coils because it's a 4 stroke. But where can I adjust for the angle of the Cam sensor, and how do I make it disregard the other magnets.
I have read and understand about the missing tooth on the crank, and understand the offset. It's brilliant. Can someone please shed some insight on how the second input is used.
Do I have to drill out the other magnets so there is only one that can be sensed by the haltech? If so is there an offset like the crank sensor from the event, or does it simply know that fuel happens 360 degrees from ignition.
I do not see a 36 -1 + 3 Home...
I am pretty technical, but I am in uncharted territory as being the only one to do this to a fully striped Protege engine..
Cam Position Magnets (3 Each)
Crank Position 36 -1
Originally Posted by Eric Gash
Brian,
36-1 +3 unfortunately does not exist in the ECU Manager software. You'll have to remove all but one trigger even on the camshaft if you want to setup a full sequential ignition and fuel control system. You can determine which magnet or trigger nub to retain by putting the engine at 70* Before TDC Cyl #1 compression stroke. One of the magnets or trigger nubs on the cam sprocket should be near the pickup. Retain this one, delete the others. When you setup the trigger to 36-1 + 1 cam home, it will recognize the cam sensor (home) input as it sync reference, then you simply set yout tooth offset and trigger angle so that you're ignition is occuring at correctly per your timing light and timing marks. Good luck with the project, and if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Eric Gash
Haltech USA Office Manager
36-1 +3 unfortunately does not exist in the ECU Manager software. You'll have to remove all but one trigger even on the camshaft if you want to setup a full sequential ignition and fuel control system. You can determine which magnet or trigger nub to retain by putting the engine at 70* Before TDC Cyl #1 compression stroke. One of the magnets or trigger nubs on the cam sprocket should be near the pickup. Retain this one, delete the others. When you setup the trigger to 36-1 + 1 cam home, it will recognize the cam sensor (home) input as it sync reference, then you simply set yout tooth offset and trigger angle so that you're ignition is occuring at correctly per your timing light and timing marks. Good luck with the project, and if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Eric Gash
Haltech USA Office Manager
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T
However,
If one of the magnets is not at the correct location, is there an Offset for just the Home?
PS.
The Home In on the Cam? and the trigger is on the Crank?
I want to get the correct words..
Can you also confirm for me that there was never a default trigger setting on the E6 called MazdaA.
My friend who is running sequential has it on that setting and has done nothing else to the car or Cam Gears.
If that is already in the Haltech Database, would it not be rather easy to reverse engineer the E6 Software and duplicate it in the new?
If one of the magnets is not at the correct location, is there an Offset for just the Home?
PS.
The Home In on the Cam? and the trigger is on the Crank?
I want to get the correct words..
Can you also confirm for me that there was never a default trigger setting on the E6 called MazdaA.
My friend who is running sequential has it on that setting and has done nothing else to the car or Cam Gears.
If that is already in the Haltech Database, would it not be rather easy to reverse engineer the E6 Software and duplicate it in the new?
Originally Posted by HaltechScott
Hello Brian,
I have spoken to Claudio about your trigger issue. These was a setting called MazdaA in the E6X software, this was imported from a previous version of custom firmware and never doccumented. I realise this is not great, but as it hapepend 8 years ago there is not much I can do about it now.
Eric is also correct in stating that this trigger is not supported in the Platinum software.
You must modify the cam sensor if you want full sequential operation (as eric has stated by having only 1 tooth on the cam) or running half cycle operation using only the crank sensor.
the cam sensor, sync sensor, home sensor are the same thing
the trigger, ref, crank trigger are the same thing
I have spoken to Claudio about your trigger issue. These was a setting called MazdaA in the E6X software, this was imported from a previous version of custom firmware and never doccumented. I realise this is not great, but as it hapepend 8 years ago there is not much I can do about it now.
Eric is also correct in stating that this trigger is not supported in the Platinum software.
You must modify the cam sensor if you want full sequential operation (as eric has stated by having only 1 tooth on the cam) or running half cycle operation using only the crank sensor.
the cam sensor, sync sensor, home sensor are the same thing
the trigger, ref, crank trigger are the same thing
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T
EDIT: I referencing this PDF in the "I was reading" reference. http://www.haltech.com/downloads/acc...or%20setup.pdf
I was reading that the Cam Position sensor on some older models did not have to actually be "exactly positioned" It has to occur before the Crank position sensor event so that the ECU can start the correct firing order, so it knows that Cylinder 1 is coming up.
Please consider this then...
I believe that the missing tooth on the crank 36 -1 is 67 Degrees from TDC Cyl 1.
Will the Cam Position event have to occur before that Crank Missing Tooth, or just some time before TDC Cyl 1 in order for the ECU to function.
If I can make them occur at exactly the same time, is this preferred, or is it better to have the Cam Event Occur just before/after the missing tooth Event on the Crank.
So basically what I am asking is when does the ECU have to receive the Cam Position for the 36 -1 +1Home in relationship to the Crank missing tooth.
(Before/Same/After) If I have to make a gear for this car with one magnet, might as well place it in the ideal place.
Thanks very much for your help so far, I started modding a Mazda to be the first to do stuff. I have never been disappointed and it has never been simple.
I would not have it any other way.
I will make this work with your input and then document the process to assist other Mazda Owners.
I was reading that the Cam Position sensor on some older models did not have to actually be "exactly positioned" It has to occur before the Crank position sensor event so that the ECU can start the correct firing order, so it knows that Cylinder 1 is coming up.
Please consider this then...
I believe that the missing tooth on the crank 36 -1 is 67 Degrees from TDC Cyl 1.
Will the Cam Position event have to occur before that Crank Missing Tooth, or just some time before TDC Cyl 1 in order for the ECU to function.
If I can make them occur at exactly the same time, is this preferred, or is it better to have the Cam Event Occur just before/after the missing tooth Event on the Crank.
So basically what I am asking is when does the ECU have to receive the Cam Position for the 36 -1 +1Home in relationship to the Crank missing tooth.
(Before/Same/After) If I have to make a gear for this car with one magnet, might as well place it in the ideal place.
Thanks very much for your help so far, I started modding a Mazda to be the first to do stuff. I have never been disappointed and it has never been simple.
I would not have it any other way.
I will make this work with your input and then document the process to assist other Mazda Owners.
Originally Posted by HaltechScott
You would want the Cam signal to occur around 5 or less teeth before the missing crank teeth. This way you will have a reasonable tooth offset and the engine will start a little faster.
I think its great what you are doing - Good luck with it.
I think its great what you are doing - Good luck with it.
Originally Posted by BRIAN MP5T
Perfect, there's the answer.
The ECU Will not care if it is not at an exact angle, but should be 5 before the Crank event.
Thanks very much. I'll post final results and what the gear looks like when it's done..
Good thing I have 3 Engines to steal parts from.
Cheers
The ECU Will not care if it is not at an exact angle, but should be 5 before the Crank event.
Thanks very much. I'll post final results and what the gear looks like when it's done..
Good thing I have 3 Engines to steal parts from.
Cheers
Last edited by BRIAN MP5T; 04-23-2009 at 06:41 AM.
05-13-2009, 07:18 AM
#46
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Ok, So the Spring Install continues..
Finally found an 14x1.5 Tap so I could install my Intake Air Temp Sensor.
Rather than installing it in the intake pipe and adding restriction, I installed it in the collector of the intake manifold. Should be a very accurate representation of what is actually going into the engine.
The Brass fitting to the right of it is for the Idle Step Motor that. It's function is to regulate the idle based on a target RPM (Set By The User)
This was the last part of the intake manifold, before I could install it on the car for good.
Still have to do the wiring.. Should not take too long..
4 Injectors
4 Ignition Coils
Home Sensor
Trigger Sensor
Fuel Pump
Cooling Fan
IAT
CTS
Coolant Pressure
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Temp
Fuel Pressure
WBO2#1 (haltech)
WBO2#2 (haltech)
WBO2#3 (UGEO)
NBO2#1
EGT #1
EGT #2
TPS
Speed Reference Sensor Front Left
Speed Reference Sensor Front Right
MAP
Idle Step Control.
Finally found an 14x1.5 Tap so I could install my Intake Air Temp Sensor.
Rather than installing it in the intake pipe and adding restriction, I installed it in the collector of the intake manifold. Should be a very accurate representation of what is actually going into the engine.
The Brass fitting to the right of it is for the Idle Step Motor that. It's function is to regulate the idle based on a target RPM (Set By The User)
This was the last part of the intake manifold, before I could install it on the car for good.
Still have to do the wiring.. Should not take too long..
4 Injectors
4 Ignition Coils
Home Sensor
Trigger Sensor
Fuel Pump
Cooling Fan
IAT
CTS
Coolant Pressure
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Temp
Fuel Pressure
WBO2#1 (haltech)
WBO2#2 (haltech)
WBO2#3 (UGEO)
NBO2#1
EGT #1
EGT #2
TPS
Speed Reference Sensor Front Left
Speed Reference Sensor Front Right
MAP
Idle Step Control.
05-13-2009, 01:04 PM
#47
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
UPDATE:
Got all the positive leads done for the battery, 1x8ga to the Alternator, 1x8ga to the starter, 1x8ga to the car (Built a fuse panel)
Also was working on the Coil bracket to verify it's feasibility..When it's done it will get polished..
Aside from being a pain in the C*CK to remove, it will work great. the coils are very high on the engine but there is still 1" of clearance under the hood. Away from water and away from the high heat of the exhaust system. The Coils are not attached... I know...
Got all the positive leads done for the battery, 1x8ga to the Alternator, 1x8ga to the starter, 1x8ga to the car (Built a fuse panel)
Also was working on the Coil bracket to verify it's feasibility..When it's done it will get polished..
Aside from being a pain in the C*CK to remove, it will work great. the coils are very high on the engine but there is still 1" of clearance under the hood. Away from water and away from the high heat of the exhaust system. The Coils are not attached... I know...
05-14-2009, 02:30 PM
#48
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Good Progress today..
Got the Wiring done for the Lights and got the Haltech to connect to the PC for the first time.
None of the sensors are connected yet which is why the screen looks like a Christmas Tree..
The IQ3 Dash is AWESOME!
Tomorrow I will start to hook up all the sensors..
Got the Wiring done for the Lights and got the Haltech to connect to the PC for the first time.
None of the sensors are connected yet which is why the screen looks like a Christmas Tree..
The IQ3 Dash is AWESOME!
Tomorrow I will start to hook up all the sensors..
05-14-2009, 08:56 PM
#49
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Ok,
TPS
Coolant Temp
Intake Air Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
MAP
are all connected.
In the AM.
Idle Motor
O2 NB
O2 WB x2
Fuel Pump
And I am going to see about the speed reference sensor.. I have no ------- Clue right now, but I'm sure it will become easy with the multi meter etc...
TPS
Coolant Temp
Intake Air Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
MAP
are all connected.
In the AM.
Idle Motor
O2 NB
O2 WB x2
Fuel Pump
And I am going to see about the speed reference sensor.. I have no ------- Clue right now, but I'm sure it will become easy with the multi meter etc...
