It's pretty bad when Tough-gay is the intelligent one on a forum...
12-20-2008, 04:06 AM
#12
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,811
Re: It's pretty bad when Tough-gay is the intelligent one on a forum...
If that resonator gave him 5h at the flywheel at 9,000rm Id be stunned.
Popping out resonator chambers on already non-horrible OEM intakes doesn't make free power, just shifts the powerband slightly.
etc
Popping out resonator chambers on already non-horrible OEM intakes doesn't make free power, just shifts the powerband slightly.
Originally Posted by 92zx7guy
i never once said it will in fact gain you horsepowerall i am saying is it isnt going to hurt your bike and if someone wants to do it then let them...
hey guys there is a simple little way to add a few extra ponies to our bikes... is probly worth 3-5 true HP and the cool thing about it is, is that its free and only take minutes to do... if your like me and lookin for more power this mod is def worth doing... this is one of the best mods u can do the 03-04 models to gain alittle more power, i could tell the throttle responce was smoother and on the butt dyno i picked alittle up top
12-20-2008, 04:10 AM
#13
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,811
Re: It's pretty bad when Tough-gay is the intelligent one on a forum...
Corrilate this to a bike however you want, but I did this years ago on my 240hp'ish 3.0L v6.
Seen pretty much the same test data I got on a 260-270hp 1uz-fe 4.0L v8. Afew other non toyota's I can't recall anymore.
Originally Posted by Toysrme
Why most headlight, hood, and scoop induction systems are COMPLETE CRAP!
They:
1) Are never located close to a point on the vehicle where the airflow can compress itself to the highest degree possible
2) The scoop is simply not even exponentially close to being large enough to effectively compress the charge at any attainable speed, at anything above low throttle angles.
The typical pre-filter stock import intake (Which are normally well designed, and DON'T give much horsepower) most stock intakes are CAI + resonators.
Best in a category = Bold, Worst = Underlined
Before the filter @ 60mph, Pressure loss in the intake (0 = better, lower = better):
Stock : 8 in/water
No intake (Short pod intake): 0 in/water
CAI: 4 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 2in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 4in/water
*Closed* throttle @ 60mph pre-filter POSITIVE PRESSURE (Higher = better):
Stock: 0 in/water
Short intake: 0.25 in/water
CAI: 0.25 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 2.5 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 5in/water
Wide open throttle total VACUUM post filter airbox, pre AFM/MAF (0 = better, others referenced from best vacuum):
Stock: -3.5 in/water
Short intake: 0 in/water
CAI: -1.18 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: -0.7 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: -5 in/water
Wide Open Throttle @ 60mph, pre-filter POSITIVE PRESSURE (Higher = better):
Stock: 0 in/water
Short intake: 0.25 in/water
CAI: 0.25 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 0.78 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 1.9 in/water
As can be seen.... Most intake claims are full of **i*.
Just for the total newbies that glance through the numbers... That was in/water. 1 in/water = 0.0361 psi. 1 psi = 27.68 in/water. If you can't tell, this is an *extremely* small difference between everything.
Once you get past basic intake restrictions themselves that can normally, easily be solved. All intakes are pretty much the same, unless you start creating problems - which a lot of people do & don't realize.
Also... The pressure drop difference between a K&N filter, and a new Toyota panel filter is ONLY 0.472 in/water difference! That's a 0.0298psi difference in intake pressure.
Useless!
They:
1) Are never located close to a point on the vehicle where the airflow can compress itself to the highest degree possible
2) The scoop is simply not even exponentially close to being large enough to effectively compress the charge at any attainable speed, at anything above low throttle angles.
The typical pre-filter stock import intake (Which are normally well designed, and DON'T give much horsepower) most stock intakes are CAI + resonators.
Best in a category = Bold, Worst = Underlined
Before the filter @ 60mph, Pressure loss in the intake (0 = better, lower = better):
Stock : 8 in/water
No intake (Short pod intake): 0 in/water
CAI: 4 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 2in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 4in/water
*Closed* throttle @ 60mph pre-filter POSITIVE PRESSURE (Higher = better):
Stock: 0 in/water
Short intake: 0.25 in/water
CAI: 0.25 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 2.5 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 5in/water
Wide open throttle total VACUUM post filter airbox, pre AFM/MAF (0 = better, others referenced from best vacuum):
Stock: -3.5 in/water
Short intake: 0 in/water
CAI: -1.18 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: -0.7 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: -5 in/water
Wide Open Throttle @ 60mph, pre-filter POSITIVE PRESSURE (Higher = better):
Stock: 0 in/water
Short intake: 0.25 in/water
CAI: 0.25 in/water
Headlight replacement ram-air: 0.78 in/water
*Perfect huge ram air*: 1.9 in/water
As can be seen.... Most intake claims are full of **i*.
Just for the total newbies that glance through the numbers... That was in/water. 1 in/water = 0.0361 psi. 1 psi = 27.68 in/water. If you can't tell, this is an *extremely* small difference between everything.
Once you get past basic intake restrictions themselves that can normally, easily be solved. All intakes are pretty much the same, unless you start creating problems - which a lot of people do & don't realize.
Also... The pressure drop difference between a K&N filter, and a new Toyota panel filter is ONLY 0.472 in/water difference! That's a 0.0298psi difference in intake pressure.
Useless!
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