Smith-02

12amp is pretty dead nuts for a 3.7hp oddball motor like that with no real guts, comeon its made by a lantern company..

Inquisition

See what is labeled as "AC" on your fuse box, that's a 220/240 fuse. As far as wiring them, literally you are just taking 120V and 120v and adding them to get 240V. It's that basic. Use how they wired the AC fuse as to how you should wire your fuse.

If you start at 8AM you should be able to go to Homedepot, buy the parts, drive home, eat a sandwich, and install all the wiring before dinner. To make life easier, just run the 240 line outside of the wall through conduit and use an external box. Makes life simple and before you move if you are afraid it isn't up to code, yanking it out makes it way easier. Just shut off the main breaker before doing any wiring and if you have an alarm, call the alarm company.

wickedpumpkin

Where you at in the cities? I live over in Crystal, I have completely rewired many homes, wired garages for welders,compressors, ect. I work as an electrical tech. 20$hr cash to do it, or if you are close I can tell ya what ya need and how to do it for a beer or "other".

hatchbox90

DONT pipe it on the exterior part of the wall, it will look like ---- and would be more difficult than what i said above. the panel looks to be a seimens. so your going to need seimens/ cutler hammer BR series breakers.

the bus on the panel goes a,b,a,b,a,b...... 2 phases..... wo swhen you wire up your 230v air comp. the breakers is goin gto be landed on two seperate phases, 120v +120v = 240. same ---- as 230

just rememeber since its most likely a sub panel, the nuetral conductors(white) are going to be seperated from the groundding conductors(bare copper) so make sure to land them accordingly. whites to the whites and grounds to grounds

clwtwizted

you can make it look like Sexy time

hatchbox90

and spend more money. pipe looks like ----. Id rather have just a 30amp receptical on my wall, not a buhch of ugly *** pipe with a disconnect on it. to each his own

clwtwizted

The conduit is all in the eyes of who runs it

material was free cept the fuses and the breakers






the machine required a 60 amp time delay fuse. I tried just a 60 amp breaker and started tripping so i upsized the wire and breaker to the disconnect and made it #6 after the fuse and to the recep. havent had a problem since

Inquisition

Yeah, but 10-3 wire is EXPENSIVE. If you have to run that up to the attic and then down the way and then back down through the wall, it will be costly. Also you have to snake the wire through insulation and all that bullshit, which is just a huge pain in the ***. If he doesn't have an attic above him, well, he is going to be tearing down his sheet rock to do the work which is more expensive and sucks more. Conduit is CHEAP. 1" is probably $2-3 for 8-12'. Not to mention, it's your ------- garage, who cares if it look a little unfinished. Lastly, running it outside of the walls makes things 10000x easier. I wouldn't even bother with the big fuse box with the shut off. Just run conduit to a box. Probably cost you $30 in material.

hatchbox90

thats why i suggested dropping it right under the panel, and then you could stuff the air comp. in the corner of the garage. so all you would need is a 4' chunk of 10-3, breaker, remodel box and plug. cheap simple job

Inquisition

That's what I did with my welder but some people don't want their compressor right there and if they have to buy/wire an extension cord, well it's still really expensive. If you can get away with keeping everything right next to the fuse panel, do so. If not, run the wires outside via conduit. Personally I'd rather save $100 in wire and keep the compressor near the fuse panel.