got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
03-13-2007, 08:38 PM
#21
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,036
Re: got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
Originally Posted by AbaZ
jesus, someone had a case of beer and a die grinder.
glad everything is coming together pete!
glad everything is coming together pete!
03-13-2007, 08:49 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
What tools do you guys use to port heads? I'm gonna have an extra motor sitting in my basement for awhile I'd like to try my hand at porting it myself. I have a dremmel tool is that what they use with some with some cool accesories or something?
03-13-2007, 09:00 PM
#25
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 0
Re: got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
Originally Posted by Dmc1
What tools do you guys use to port heads? I'm gonna have an extra motor sitting in my basement for awhile I'd like to try my hand at porting it myself. I have a dremmel tool is that what they use with some with some cool accesories or something?
The tools to port a head will run you around
100-300 dollars for a real good carbide cutters need different shapes and sizes
60-80 for porting kit
100-300 for a good die grinder not an air one
03-13-2007, 09:35 PM
#26
0.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 0
Re: got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
yea i actually just finished going at it for a few hours with a sand roll. its a lot smoother now. it really wasnt bad at all before though. i think the camera just makes it look really chunky at points, but it's a lot better now. thanks for the comments guys and i'll keep you updated.
03-15-2007, 10:39 AM
#27
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,811
Re: got my cyl head back finally, few updated pics
I've always used an air die grinder with varrying grinding stones, and a hand full of carbide cutters. I finish them with a 80 grit flap disk sanding wheel, but I've used 120grit before. If the ports are going to be polished... Then I pull out some buffing wheels after using a 300-360 grit flap wheel sanding disk.
Have a set of innder diameter calipers & mark the tool for depth, and mark the head to positioning to measure from.
The biggest thing is to unshroud the valves before cutting new valve seats, blending the short side radious (sometimes easyest done with a very abrasive fold of sand paper on your finger, then finger your SSR), and fixing the bowls.
The actual size of the port has more to do with where the powerband will be located. Port sizing has an almost identical affect on the powerband as changing the cam timing & duration (at the same valve lift). By hogging them out like they are, it's done nothing more than shift the powerband that much higher. Which is not nessiceraly more power than what would actually have been made across a larger rpm range by simply "fixing" what's wrong with the OEM ports.
For just porting a couple of heads, you can buy a crappy 110v electric die grinder from harbor frieght. The biggest thing on a head with deep ports, is a flexible shaft.
Have a set of innder diameter calipers & mark the tool for depth, and mark the head to positioning to measure from.
The biggest thing is to unshroud the valves before cutting new valve seats, blending the short side radious (sometimes easyest done with a very abrasive fold of sand paper on your finger, then finger your SSR), and fixing the bowls.
The actual size of the port has more to do with where the powerband will be located. Port sizing has an almost identical affect on the powerband as changing the cam timing & duration (at the same valve lift). By hogging them out like they are, it's done nothing more than shift the powerband that much higher. Which is not nessiceraly more power than what would actually have been made across a larger rpm range by simply "fixing" what's wrong with the OEM ports.
For just porting a couple of heads, you can buy a crappy 110v electric die grinder from harbor frieght. The biggest thing on a head with deep ports, is a flexible shaft.
