HMT-Admin

I really dont like the bracket on the end of the radius arms, Why didnt you make it longer and bolt 2 holes through it so its like stock?

Aluminum radius arms will be fine, Full-Race uses them in all there traction/front x member setups and they are designed to be 5.1 times stronger than stock.

http://full-race.com/store/images/crxtb.jpg

But then again, I've seen beau bend a full 1/2 steel radius bar right in half on his crx. lol

Jeff

bambooseven

as long as the geometry is correct it will not limit suspension travel at all. the radius arm just needs to pivot on the same plane as the LCA, think of it as a really wide, funny looking wishbone/a-arm. all it is made to do is limit the lateral movement of the LCA.

Weir, to answer your question, I'd stick to mild on the crossmember itself, there is a lot of stress on that thing in places you wouldn't expect there to be. the arms themselves would do well as aluminum tubing though.

why did you go with square tubing rather then round tubing? IMHO you are far better off w/ just one piece of round tubing then you are with all the square and gussets and trusses you made. just use an angled L bracket type of deal to connect to your mounting locations.

gon3r

but i really wanted to use aluminum for the whole thing! it would be so much lighter and sexy. ms looks like poo poo unless you paint it. oh well, i don't want to spend all the time and have it break so i guess ms it is.

the reason for the link on the lca is because i used the original tie rod and it didn't line up perfectly so i just cut the second hole off it and i made the aluminum spacer to just add some extra holding strength. i borrowed that idea from the z10 cm.

reason for suare tube: because it is free. i don't have access to free round tubing.

that full-race one is more like what i want the new design to look like.

thanks for all the input guys.

bambooseven

z10 is a piece of ---- and is UNSAFE to drive on, the only two that are acceptable on the market right now are full-race, and jimfab. search ht about it and you'll see why.

MikeJ-2009

Why don't you just tell us why jerkass? You throw out that suchandsuch isn't good, then tell us to search to back up YOUR CLAIMS. Come on, we're too lazy for that.
Aaron, once you get the design down, I'll get one for my 92 hatch.

bambooseven

^^ actually you have the right Idea, Ideally you'd have a spherical bearing in there (and any other pivot point on your suspension. however, we have bushings there for a reason (we street drive our cars).

the reason why z10 is ---- is that the z10 bar's radius arm mounting points are further from the center point then the Lca mounting points. meaning when the LCA moves the radius arm moves too, only on two different planes, which causes binding and eventually the breaking of parts (LCA's, Radius arms, Subframes, etc)

bambooseven

A is Ideal
B is Z10
C would just be retarded

do you get it now?

gon3r

would it mount the same? i'm not sure. if it does you will be the first to get one steve. otherwise i'll have to take some measurements off someone's car and make one. i have started on one out of steel. i am going to make one out of aluminum anyway.

thanks for clarifying all that bamboo7. that makes perfect sense. the diagram is very helpful.

as for the insert idea as suggested by ghettoturbo, those are already out there. someone came up with that idea a few years ago. it is basically a pair of captured heim bearings that replace the rubber bushings that connect your tie rod to the cm. they just bolt together with 4 small bolts on either side of the mounting point and work the same way the rubber would, just stiffer. they work good, but they don't look near as cool and free up any room for turbo hardware.

MikeJ-2009

If your gonna make them your gonna make them for the ever so popular EG, right?