marcj

sup nigs? well i've always been the type to pick out my pistons and rods, and pay some guy to assemble the bottom end for me.. then I usually take up the rest on my own.. but not this time! I have a D16y8 with a rebuild kit from FTJ or whatever he calls himself.

so I have a few questions.. first off, I haven't pulled the crank out, and I was told if i don't machine the crank and use the same rods I can just throw the STD rod bearings back in and skip the whole plastic gauge part.. is this accurate information?

also, I chose YCP D15B1 PM3 pistons because they were free, and my 96 coupe is already built for boost.. so the HF will be my a/c beater car.. so how do I get these pistons on my old rods? is there a tool to pop out the wrist pin or can I just beat it out with a hammer and a punch the same diameter?

should I use the same gap for the rings as the workshop manual tells me to on a stock rebuild?

J-SMITH69

best advice i can give:

you'll probably be ok with standard bearings in there if you use the same rods and crank, most likely be ok i would say. i've done it, and didn't result in a spun bearing. but they will probably wear uneven and not last as long.

as for the rods and pistons. you need a press or hotrex to get them in. i take them to a guy who charges me a couple bucks to do it.

marcj

rofl


thanks for the input.. the motor itself has right at 200k miles on it and had a loose wrist pin so I pulled it apart.
if I plastic gauge each rod and cap what kind of clearance am I looking for to be good with standard bearings?

RotaryGeek

Why skip the plastigauge? That could be the $5 difference between a good motor and another oil spot in your driveway.