scribble912

i've got a 95talon tsi 7bolt i'm looking at buying a set of rods and pistons for a "6bolt" can i use those in my 7bolt or do i have to run the 6bolt crank and crap? kinda a newbie at dsm's. "honda guy here"
I've heard on 7bolts you have to drill a hole in the main bearing race to eliminate premature bearing wear, can anyone second this and if pics would help?
What kind of options are out there for aftermarket thrust bearing i've heard a couple different materials, has anyone had good experiences with a certian company or brand
Any tricks and tips for building my 7bolt would be GREATLY appreciated.
thnx for the feedback guys.

HondaTuner

Throw your head on a 6 bolt block and call it a day

USS

Why are you building a parts car?

stillnoturbo

My VR4 has ran perfect all fall, winter and spring so far and never had a problem besides the radiator cracking a week after I bought it. The guy before me just patched it up with expoxy . After the new radiator it's been better then all my honda's. I'd say just get a 6 bolt shortblock and swap that in. Don't even hassle with that 7 bolt. Leather seats, awd, turbo 4dr's FTW!

darksol2005

So, why don't you just buy some 7 bolt parts? douche bag :1

gen4acclude

differences are crank-walk and dependability no six bolt stuff wont work on a 7 bolt

stickman

Just fgo out and get a 6-bolt block and build that up. The six bolts are alot stronger and you won't have to worry about crankwalk.
Do as he says haha. I have money put aside just in cvase my 7-bolt decides to take a walk. Just bolt on your head and get a new flywheel for the 6bolt :-) The clutch is the same as the 7bolt but the flywheel is different. Or you can get the 1st gen head and intake mani. It uses a larger throttle body and flows better.

aero

Running 6 bolt rods in a 7 bolt requires some machine work to the crank end of the rod. Many people do it swapping the stock 6 bolt rods in since they are quite a bit beefier than the stock 7 bolt stuff. If you are buying aftermarket, just get the right stuff. The big end has to be narrowed slightly to fit into the 7 bolt journals.

There are a lot of "fixes" for crankwalk, but most don't have enough testing to definitively say they are a 100% fix. IMO crankwalk is blown way out of proportion, its not as common as its made out to be and whenever something happens its the first thing they jump to. The only 100% proven fix IMO is the 6 bolt swap.

CspecRun

6 bolt rods and pistons aren't gonna keep the engine from C'WALKIN' anyways...it's the 7 bolt crankshaft itself that is faulty, not the pistons and rods...a complete 6 bolt block can be had for relatively cheap...I left one at a house the last time I moved and went back to look for it recently, but unfortunately it's gone...I know where a RUNNING 6 bolt 4g63t w/automatic trans for $600 is at now, but I'm too lazy to go pull it and go through the hassle of shipping it to somebody...ME FTL

noboostedEGo

If you want easy, just get a 6bolt motor.

A 2g head actually flows better than a 1g head, BUT the 1g tb and im flow better.

A 2g head on a isn't just take off the 1g head, and throw on the 2g head. There's something that needs to be changed with the CAS.

I'm not a dsm guy either lol