mr8

Yikes.... those electronic ones are expensive, I am going to use a Zener diode and resistor to clamp the voltage it cost like 2 bucks to make and it is simple in design.

HMT-Admin

let me know how that clamp works...

btw, clamp it directly at 3.0v's

Jeff

LeftNut

I'm told the magic clamp number is 2.92 volts ........ keeping in mind the clamping device needs to stay completely transparent under that voltage.
If you want to get really fancy (but still be low budget), JHill made me a "Ghostbooster" (using schematics off a thread on www.s2ki.com which uses a spare MAP Sensor and a "best battery" circuit in reverse to always pick the lower voltage value between the two MAPs (this premium solution is self compensating for changes in atmospheric conditions and elevation).

shortyz

we cant just throw on a dsm one onto the intake and unplug the stock one ?

dam!

HMT-Admin

hmm, From tests I have done, I have found that the CEL will trigger at 3.2v's.

And no you cannot use the DSM map sensor? plus they use a mass-air flow.

Jeff

LeftNut

I don't doubt the CEL triggers at 3.2 v .... but I'm told the computer starts to get suspicious at above 2.9x and starts pulling timing out …… and who knows what else ..... this is all second/third hand info so take it for what it's worth

thermal

if you still want the check valves, here the part number from Pep boys or Autozone:
47149 for $3.00 a piece
It is in a red package with a big bold letter that says "HELP".

nyc86zc

Don't get plastic check valves from the pet store. They have plastic and metal ones, opt for the metal ones.
Under boost, the plastic tops would literally blow off resulting in a loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor so the car would run like potty.

otterizer

what causes check valves to go bad after a week of boost?

HMT-Admin

shitty construction

the pet store ones blow ***, and the auto store ones are not much better. Honestly they suck all together

Jeff