jo_gobel

sorry but i still have to disagree.

IMO, caps are bandaids and marketing.

the right way to do it is to get up Alt upgraded and to use extra batteries.


why do you think all of the major competitors in SPL shows use multiple Alts and lots of batteries

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...?showtopic=144

jo_gobel

i know exactly what its for....


when the bass hits, it drops the batties voltage down, and the Alt recharges it. A cap is used to help reduce the voltage drop caused by the power draw from the amp.

for "short" bursts of bass, a cap may help. but for prolong periods of pounding your system, the cap is nothing more than an extra draw on the alt that it needs to charge.


thus, my reasoning for calling it a band aid.



the "general population" does not need a cap. they need to fix the wiring, upgrade the alt, and upgrade the battery. by doing those things, you shouldnt have a need to get a cap.

if there is still something wrong after upgrading those items, you have at least 1 thing wrong....

to many amps for your electrical system or

to many shitty amps hooked up (ie Pyle, Pyrimid, Crunch, Boss, Legacy, etc...)

fork

I cap is not a band aid. It will correct certain problems. If you are listening to music, the bass hits your lights dim slightly, it is because the electrical system is not producing enough current. This will result in a voltage drop. Now if you have a cap, as soon as the voltage drops below the level in the cap, the cap will discharge, providing extra current to the electrical system in the car. Once the bass stops hitting, there is no longer a shortage of current in the system, everything will start getting full voltage from the alternator and charge the battery and cap back up. This is easier on you alternator because it is easier for the alternator to provide a slightly higher current for a slightly longer period of time. As opposed to providing a much higher level of current. I have 3 caps in my truck a couple thousand watts. If you are putting a large amp in a honda get a cap, at least.

jo_gobel

fork....


thanks for rewording exactly what i just said.


and no, its "not" easier on your alt, its just another thing that it has to charge up. and if your adding a cap because, as you said, "the electrical system is not producing enough current", then that is exactly why you need to upgrade other items that i mentioned all ready.

as far as your truck and what you have, that besides the point. you having a "couple thousand watts" doesnt mean to much to me. Ive been doing this for 15 years, seen my fair share of car audio in those years, and I can count on 1 hand, how many "real systems" ive seen and had a cap installed.

we can "discuss" this all you want, but the supporters of a power cap can talk talk till they are blue in the face, because I will still have my opinion and what i have seen.

accordepicenter

what make/model amp? If your going for SQ id run each sub on different channels, but if your going for SPL id go with option 2. In a handful of cases, some amps will put out far more power going 1 or 2 ohm bridged even though they say they only do 4 ohm mono or so. Some us amps and earthquake etc amps are like that, in addition to soundstream, orion, earlier mtx and RF amps too, also some old Lanzar amps. In my experience with your average amp, youll get a little greater power at the expense of limiting the lifespan on the amp and possibly putting it into thermal overload quickly. Sometimes, if you just wanna mess around it can get interesting

jo_gobel

jago...

actually i am not talking about someone with an "ideal" setup.

most factory alts SHOULD be able to handle "moderate" loads from a sound system. If you experience ANY dimming of the lights, then there is something wrong within the charging system. a cap will only band aid the real problem, which is most likely a weak/dying alt.

personally i have never owned a cap, nor plan to. I have always spent the money, which is roughly the same amount for a cap, to have my alt upgraded.

and no, i dont have a honda or import. my stock amps on my alt is 105. i have been driving the same car for 8 years and have been through countless different setups and only 2 alts (stock, and the current replacement that i had upgraded at a local place).

jo_gobel

thanks for the input.

the amp is a Profile AP2000 - i have had very good luck running this model series. for the money, there isnt to much in its class. yes, there are far better amps, but not in this price range. Plus, IMO, Profile is no worse than kicker/pioneer/kenwood/etc.... they are deffinately not a Legacy/Pyramid/Boss/etc... brand.

2-channel car amplifier
320 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (480 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
960 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
variable low-pass filters (50-250 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
variable bass boost (0-12 dB) at 45 Hz
variable subsonic filter (20-50 Hz)
wired bass level remote control
stereo or bridged mono output
Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
preamp- and speaker-level inputs
preamp outputs
fuse rating: 25A x 4
4-gauge power and ground leads and a 100-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
24-3/16"W x 2"H x 10-5/16"D





the subs that are being used are Earthquake DBXi-15d, 2 of them...

Massive Excursion

Stitched Leads

Spring Loaded Terminals

Cast Aluminum Frame

Double Stacked Magnet with boot

Nomex/Romex Double Spiders

TCT (Turbine Cooled Transducer) Cooling Device

* 1000 Watts RMS 2000 Walls Peak Power
* 15" cast frame subwoofer
* Dual voice coil 4-ohm
* XMax 1.5-Inch, 30.48 mm
* 3" voice coil, aluminum bobin
* Sensitivity 88 dB
* Free Air Resonance 20Hz
* 150 Oz double stacked magnet

Ntrain2k

FACLAEB

----
A
Cap
Love
An
Extra
Batt