built y8 head
01-07-2006, 12:41 AM
#11
1.0 BAR
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 212
Re: built y8 head
Originally Posted by Random Hero
Combustion efficiency you ------- moron.. you just contridicted yourself..
ScottSi is rigth, go with a Z6 head They are cheap and people are willing to trade for y8 heads because it ups your compression. I honestly would not go with any valvetrain. I have reved this ---- out of stock valvetrain and ran accross absolutly no problems (to 8200 many times) and i know other users have done the same.
As far as the z6 head goes, straight bolt up? will my y8 vtec solenoid and intake mani fit properly? What would you suggest as far as a build on a z6 head? As far as bottom end goes, It will be built as well. Is there anyone out there that makes a better oil pump that i can use on the y7 bottom end? Im not hoping for any outrageous numbers or anything, My high goal being a mere 300, which i have seen done on an all stock d series, and very close to on numerous other d series engines.
01-07-2006, 02:41 AM
#15
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: built y8 head
Thanx for the photos...you pretty much showed some of my points. Yes, a y8 intake manifold will bolt on to a z6 head, and yes, the vtec solenoid should as well. As far as the oil pump goes, i'm not positive but i do believe you can use a z6 oil pump as well, as long as you get the z6 pickup and pan for it. Also to answer some of your other questions from earluer, i would suggest the ferrea valvetrain if you plan on upgrading. Good reputation and a proven track record. Stay away from the zex cams, i've been hearing alot of problems with them breaking at the cam gear. Crower makes good components, but more than likely you're going to have to call them and tell them your equipment and try to have them make a custom grind cam for your application. You'll see better results in the long run if you have everything tailored to each other than by just slapping in "any old FI" cam.
01-07-2006, 02:55 AM
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: built y8 head
You hear a lot of bad stuff about the Y8 head, but builthatch is running one. In the land of NA D-series, there are 120 whp fools, and Bisi... and directly in the middle is builthatch w/ 154 whp. Only NA D-series guys I know that make more power are pushing ~200 whp on 79mm bores (with parts bought from Bisi).
The bias on the divider looks like it can be cleaned up in 2 minutes with a Dremel. Pffft. I'd rather do that than have to weld up my combustion chamber to get some quench.
Talk to Rocket @ m24x.zeroforum.com. He quoted me the best prices on valvesprings and retainers for D16, and he knows his ----.
The bias on the divider looks like it can be cleaned up in 2 minutes with a Dremel. Pffft. I'd rather do that than have to weld up my combustion chamber to get some quench.
Talk to Rocket @ m24x.zeroforum.com. He quoted me the best prices on valvesprings and retainers for D16, and he knows his ----.
01-07-2006, 08:57 AM
#18
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,161
Re: built y8 head
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
Ok...first this thread shoulda been in the hybrid/tech section. But on to business. A z6 head will outflow a y8 in stock form. I used to think it was the opposite as well until i looked at some flow charts from some bench flow tests. I don't mean to be an ***, but you honestly didn't think that one through did you. 
The reason you think you can run a more advanced ignition is cause *gasp* the z6 doesn't have the squared off combustion chamber. More space in the head means a lower static compression, so of course you'd be able to run slightly more timing. But not much more than a y8. The whole purpose of those sqaure combustion chambers is to help efficiency during combustion, to combat detonation by placing the combustion exactly where it needs to be...centered over the piston. Here's another thing for you too...if and when you do get a portmatch and polish done, don't knife-edge the runner in the center of the intake side...air/fuel flow is concentrated on the outside of the port. By leaving the runner slighlty fat, it creates an airplane wing effect and increases the speed of the air/fuel flowing in. And of course the general knowledge of leave the intake side rough for better air/fuel atomization. If i think of anything more before i get completely drunk, i'll let ya know. 
The reason you think you can run a more advanced ignition is cause *gasp* the z6 doesn't have the squared off combustion chamber. More space in the head means a lower static compression, so of course you'd be able to run slightly more timing. But not much more than a y8. The whole purpose of those sqaure combustion chambers is to help efficiency during combustion, to combat detonation by placing the combustion exactly where it needs to be...centered over the piston. Here's another thing for you too...if and when you do get a portmatch and polish done, don't knife-edge the runner in the center of the intake side...air/fuel flow is concentrated on the outside of the port. By leaving the runner slighlty fat, it creates an airplane wing effect and increases the speed of the air/fuel flowing in. And of course the general knowledge of leave the intake side rough for better air/fuel atomization. If i think of anything more before i get completely drunk, i'll let ya know. The way I typed it, it appeared as if I was saying the ports allowed the advanced timing. I was actually planning on listing some positives of both. I KNOW that's not why you can advance the timing more. I didn't know quite why all I knew is what I read and heard from the z6 compared to the y8. The dizzy will have to be swapped to and can you keep the same intake manifold with a z6 on a y7? Buddy put a y7 in his EG and needed a different intake mani, and the OBD1 dizzy. Just doesn't seem worth it. My opinion.
JP
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