SkunT

my thinking craig...find a block, build it, post it along with all of the dyno sheets, pics etc. etc. etc. and see how people react.



As someone else said, it might not be a HOT seller but im sure you would sell them if people knew it was out there. Your rods sell...so why not the crank also? Is it a large $$ buy in? Whats holding you back from stocking it?

Random Hero

I'd buy 1 98 and 2 95's. People love those stroker cranks around here. One of my good friends is running a 98mm crank in his all motor car right now.

SkunT

I enjoy popping the hood and sayin "look, its only a B16"

crx2fast

well i enjoy popping the hood and sayin "look, its only a B16 TURBO"

SkunT

yeah, so anyways, im anxious to hear what craigs got to say about this...

Tom-Guy

Yeah, when LS shorties are practically free, you're going to pay top $ for a crank just to retain stupid OMG JDM B16 block stamp.

I'd boost the hell out of a stroked engine, but only 1.8 block so I'd actually get a significant bump in displacement. My only concerns are quality... if they are like your rods, sold American. If they are a low end crank that has balance or wear issues, puke.

TunerToys

Yeah, I too wonder about the stigma that these are for all motor applications only. I figure that with the increased torque of the longer stroke, the thicker sleeves of the B18A/B vs B20 thinner sleeves, that a turbo'd stroker would be a pretty cool combination...

So am I to assume from that statement, that just about any "B" crank will fit into any "B" engine? It then is just a matter of finding a good combination? If so, then the only advantage of these cranks is if the factory cranks are not built of the same material as the aftermarket cranks, and the aftermarket cranks being knife-edged from the factory.

Yeah, I don't want to waste a lot of time on a product that isn't going to sell well. That why I wanted to get you guy's input first. I can always count on HMT to be direct and honest, and sometimes brutal.

We are getting ready to do a B18B swap into an EG, and then boost it. Maybe once that is done, we can stroke it and see what happens.

My only hold back was that I don't know enough about swapping cranks, and hate to sell something that I don't have personal experience. In absence of that experience, I turn to you guys to draw on your expertise.

Other than HT, where do these guys hang out? I'd like to post up and get some input from some folks who have had first hand experience with these.

Yeah, we've had excellent results with the H-Beam rods, other than a few fitment issues. The manufacturer has been real good about taking our input on the changes needed to the rods to make them an excellent product. We've never had a failure, out of hundreds of sets sold.

Maybe I shold pick one of these cranks up and have our local machine shop evealuate them like I initially did before selling the H-Beams. Have them balance it and mic it for size and tolerances. Then I could use it for a stroker build and do a write up.

Thanks guys and keep it coming!

Craig

EG-prince

I'm interested in it myself, I am going to build my engine soon, though i have no car to put it in yet ... how much are we talking? You said half the price of an eagle equivalent, but i have no idea what that is. And are you talking just selling the crank by itself?

HondaTuner

If you do stroker cranks, you should do a package deal of rods/pistons in there as well

turbohf

question: so are you going to be selling the rods that go with these cranks? if you have a longer stroke your gonna need either a shorter rod or a set of pistons with pins that are set higher in the piston, or both...

yeah Craig, the B16A, B16B, B17A1, B18C, and B18A/B & B20B/Z all share the same main bearings, flywheel bolt pattern, and crank snouts... now the rod journals are different withs and you will need the correct set of rods for them. i also remember people using [modified] B20A5 cranks in B18 motors, think the Crower cranks where based of these?