Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
07-29-2007, 07:26 AM
#11
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 345
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
in my srt4 i had the tps wire problem. (it'll cause rpm fluxuations symptoms)
my lower motor mount was shot. the actual interior was okay. but any plastic peice was cheap. the transmisson is stout and can take a beating from most of the power you throw at it. but originally it was design for a diesel aplications so the syncros don't like to be shifted like f1 cars. those syncro's tend to give out for those who love WOT shifting. also the 2003 axles were the ---- ones btw. thebigger ones came out from the 04/05 models. but you were looking at a 05 so it doesnt matter.
aside that i had misfires everynow and then. but that was mostly because i was running 21 psi tapering off to 15lbs at redline. untuned stage 1 injectors on a non-stage veichle so i had misfires. (i had an 03 whitch came with smaller injectors originally)
the stock ecu is a learning PCM. so like it detects changes in the veichle depending on your atmosphere and changes accordingly.
btw stage 3 is fully capable of passing smog. there is a member on the forums that sells adaptors to your engine harness that gets rid of a code called "automatic transmission code" from there it gives you the go to any smog center as a strage 3 looks completely stock. it's completely capable of being hidden and there can be ran at all times without problems. btw all stages give this automatic transmission code. but i think dodge made it that way knowing someone is going to crack the code and make it capable getting smoged without problem. hell the stock harness has an extra wire that pretends to lead to a automatic transmission but really only hides itself in an area that is very incospicous from the factory.
it terms of moding the biggest restriction is the stock turbine exhaust housing. it's stupidly small and there is nothing you can do since the housing and manifold are a one peice thing. you can to clip the exahust wheel to get more flow but you loose spool characteristics. i was able to hit 21psi of boost at 1800 rpms i mean crazy small turbine side with a aftermarket wastegate. the weakest link internally of the engine would most likely be the exhaust ports they are crazy tiny. i could barely fit my pinky in the exhaust port stock. porting is probably the single biggest benifit you can do for the engine. but beside power that the weakest component would most likely be the pistons. which give out at anything above 450WHP. the rods are strong. at 550Whp, the welds and studs need to be upgraded with anything more then 500WHP also it would be a good idea to have the whole rotating mass balanced. but those are some basics.
but the general consensus on the forum is that 400whp on stock block is a safe area to be within the stock engine's maximum ideal performance range.
oh yes one more thing. JD was right about. SLICKS and high RPM clutch dropping are a BIG nono. i don't give a ---- if you even upgraded to the 1200 WTQ axles.. they'll break.. the Neon is one big heavy son of a bitch. they don't handle well. they have the turning radious of a bus. and they are generally loud.
although i must admit i would of still of had it if i were able to afford the payments. (at the time i lost my work getting layed off..)
my lower motor mount was shot. the actual interior was okay. but any plastic peice was cheap. the transmisson is stout and can take a beating from most of the power you throw at it. but originally it was design for a diesel aplications so the syncros don't like to be shifted like f1 cars. those syncro's tend to give out for those who love WOT shifting. also the 2003 axles were the ---- ones btw. thebigger ones came out from the 04/05 models. but you were looking at a 05 so it doesnt matter.
aside that i had misfires everynow and then. but that was mostly because i was running 21 psi tapering off to 15lbs at redline. untuned stage 1 injectors on a non-stage veichle so i had misfires. (i had an 03 whitch came with smaller injectors originally)
the stock ecu is a learning PCM. so like it detects changes in the veichle depending on your atmosphere and changes accordingly.
btw stage 3 is fully capable of passing smog. there is a member on the forums that sells adaptors to your engine harness that gets rid of a code called "automatic transmission code" from there it gives you the go to any smog center as a strage 3 looks completely stock. it's completely capable of being hidden and there can be ran at all times without problems. btw all stages give this automatic transmission code. but i think dodge made it that way knowing someone is going to crack the code and make it capable getting smoged without problem. hell the stock harness has an extra wire that pretends to lead to a automatic transmission but really only hides itself in an area that is very incospicous from the factory.
it terms of moding the biggest restriction is the stock turbine exhaust housing. it's stupidly small and there is nothing you can do since the housing and manifold are a one peice thing. you can to clip the exahust wheel to get more flow but you loose spool characteristics. i was able to hit 21psi of boost at 1800 rpms i mean crazy small turbine side with a aftermarket wastegate. the weakest link internally of the engine would most likely be the exhaust ports they are crazy tiny. i could barely fit my pinky in the exhaust port stock. porting is probably the single biggest benifit you can do for the engine. but beside power that the weakest component would most likely be the pistons. which give out at anything above 450WHP. the rods are strong. at 550Whp, the welds and studs need to be upgraded with anything more then 500WHP also it would be a good idea to have the whole rotating mass balanced. but those are some basics.
but the general consensus on the forum is that 400whp on stock block is a safe area to be within the stock engine's maximum ideal performance range.
oh yes one more thing. JD was right about. SLICKS and high RPM clutch dropping are a BIG nono. i don't give a ---- if you even upgraded to the 1200 WTQ axles.. they'll break.. the Neon is one big heavy son of a bitch. they don't handle well. they have the turning radious of a bus. and they are generally loud.
although i must admit i would of still of had it if i were able to afford the payments. (at the time i lost my work getting layed off..)
07-29-2007, 11:23 AM
#12
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
I did some research on the tranny itself, at least it's not made by dodge/chrysler this time but by Venture Gear corp but what's really messed up is that it runs an ATF instead of you standard MTF or gear oil. Something about the way it's designed I guess.
Supposedly it was a trade in for a big dodge work truck from some older guy (mid 30's they were saying and not some kid) who's contracting business started growing. Downfall is he did do some other things to the car besides the stage 2 upgrade. I'm no expert on dodges but I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to hear a blow-off sound when you shift (I didn't look under the hood yet, going to go look it over with a fine-tooth comb monday). :P The guy also changed the stock wheels for some 17" aftermarket one's, guess they don't look too bad, but the gay blue headlight covers and fog light covers have to go.
Supposedly it was a trade in for a big dodge work truck from some older guy (mid 30's they were saying and not some kid) who's contracting business started growing. Downfall is he did do some other things to the car besides the stage 2 upgrade. I'm no expert on dodges but I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to hear a blow-off sound when you shift (I didn't look under the hood yet, going to go look it over with a fine-tooth comb monday). :P The guy also changed the stock wheels for some 17" aftermarket one's, guess they don't look too bad, but the gay blue headlight covers and fog light covers have to go.
07-29-2007, 11:44 AM
#13
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 249
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
Get the dealer to do a leakdown test on the car.
W/ Stage2 already installed I'd imagine he's beaten the **** out of the car and put it away wet a few times.
What others who "work at a dealership" have said... is partially wrong.
The transmission is stout, there are lots of people making in excess of 700 ft lbs of torque on it. The input shaft... in any car when you boost the power over 3x it's normal output is going to twist, or snap. Generally clutches go, because this is people's first manual car... or they ------- suck at driving. I've got my stock clutch with 40k miles on the clock and it's still grabbing strong. A couple people on the national boards are running the stock clutch with 500+whp.
The main weakness in this engine from the factory is the balance shafts... the chain they are connected with is on a couple plastic gears.. (wtf dodge?).... you can simply cut the chain, and call it a day. I would highly recommend doing that at anything over 450whp. The pistons are good till about 500whp.. There are a few stock long block srt4s making over 500whp... but they're time is counting down. The next thing you have to worry about in a high hp srt4 is the oil pump... detonation / pre-det / bad knock will cause the gears to eat themselves.. and destroy your motor / turbo.
As far as the car being a heavy pig and not handling... lmao.. 2900lbs... is not heavy.. compared to other cars out there that are marketed as performance. And the NRGY stage3 car (the first daily driven srt4 in the tens)... ran I believe 16" slicks, and cut consistant 1.4-1.5 second 60's... on stock axles... and didn't break a single one for the couple years it was running. Ran a 10.89 on a stage3 turbo w/ a 50 shot. 10.94-5 w/ out the 50 shot both at @125-130mph. It's running a dbb 50 trim without spray right now.. and trapping close to 140mph.
W/ Stage2 already installed I'd imagine he's beaten the **** out of the car and put it away wet a few times.
What others who "work at a dealership" have said... is partially wrong.
The transmission is stout, there are lots of people making in excess of 700 ft lbs of torque on it. The input shaft... in any car when you boost the power over 3x it's normal output is going to twist, or snap. Generally clutches go, because this is people's first manual car... or they ------- suck at driving. I've got my stock clutch with 40k miles on the clock and it's still grabbing strong. A couple people on the national boards are running the stock clutch with 500+whp.
The main weakness in this engine from the factory is the balance shafts... the chain they are connected with is on a couple plastic gears.. (wtf dodge?).... you can simply cut the chain, and call it a day. I would highly recommend doing that at anything over 450whp. The pistons are good till about 500whp.. There are a few stock long block srt4s making over 500whp... but they're time is counting down. The next thing you have to worry about in a high hp srt4 is the oil pump... detonation / pre-det / bad knock will cause the gears to eat themselves.. and destroy your motor / turbo.
As far as the car being a heavy pig and not handling... lmao.. 2900lbs... is not heavy.. compared to other cars out there that are marketed as performance. And the NRGY stage3 car (the first daily driven srt4 in the tens)... ran I believe 16" slicks, and cut consistant 1.4-1.5 second 60's... on stock axles... and didn't break a single one for the couple years it was running. Ran a 10.89 on a stage3 turbo w/ a 50 shot. 10.94-5 w/ out the 50 shot both at @125-130mph. It's running a dbb 50 trim without spray right now.. and trapping close to 140mph.
07-29-2007, 12:11 PM
#14
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
I've seen the power potential of these cars, but I'm not going for *****-out power. Basicly this is going to replace my civic hatch all together as a fun toy with semi-daily driver status until the winter and snow comes, then it's back to the AWD Legacy GT for those nice snowy days. :P I don't plan on doing any major upgrades if I do get it, maybe a better exhaust once the warranty runs out. I've had my share of quick boosted hondas, and now that time is over and I just want to get something that in stock form handles good, has some good power and is somewhat civil compared to what my honda is.
07-29-2007, 12:22 PM
#15
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 170
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
i was going to buy one too, someting about them when u sit in them, there so nice. and i think oveerall there a pretty nice car. but i couldnt afford it, and someone else bought it. i work at Honda and about a month later the car returned, it wouldnt stay started and wouldnt go into gear. one of the techs is putting another trans in it. not saying there carp, it all depends on the history, u get dumb *** kids out there and rip them apart, then you get the car and a week later is locks up. if it wasnt beat on, i would def get it.
07-29-2007, 03:02 PM
#16
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
Originally Posted by stevenb
The input shaft... in any car when you boost the power over 3x it's normal output is going to twist, or snap.
Not trying to be a douchelord, but the input shaft is a weak link on those cars.
07-29-2007, 04:36 PM
#17
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 249
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Name one other than the SRT4 that is prone to it, then.
Not trying to be a douchelord, but the input shaft is a weak link on those cars.
Not trying to be a douchelord, but the input shaft is a weak link on those cars.
Wow, holy ----... After some researching.. it seems to be a common thing in chrysler cars / trannies.
I'm glad I'll be buying my p-works stage3 transmission with a DCR billet input shaft. 
I can't wait till I start ordering the parts next summer.
I'm going to go stock displacement gt3076r... then once I get a new car.. I'm looking at Megasquirt along with a DCR 2.6l stroker motor, and a gt35r or gt42r. With some cams and a nice redline of 8k rpms.
07-29-2007, 05:54 PM
#19
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 21,479
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
Wow, lots of info that goes against other info. 
Who to believe? 
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07-29-2007, 06:33 PM
#20
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,162
Re: Anyone know of any major issues with the srt-4 skittles?
i don't even believe what i posted now.....i mean shyt i only work on these ******* for a living...guess all my diamler chrysler certifications are for nothing.......i should go get a job at mcdonalds or something and give up this whole "technician" shyt 
oh and just so you kno.....reading about problems and actually dealing with them are two seperate thing Stevenb........u can think all u want about something just becaue u read about it.....but i kno first hand that these have alot of problems......
oh and here are a few TSB's related to ur year srt ur looking at "
Front Seal, Pump 2.4L
Part Numbers:
04667198
04884390A$
Issue Description:
If the front crankshaft seal is popped/pushed out measure the crankshaft end play. If the end play is out specification please see the STAR online case # K93016699 for recommended repair procedure.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicle may exhibit a popping/clicking/snapping/ticking sound from the front hub/half shaft
area during acceleration after Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive shifts. The sound may
also be present while turning and accelerating from a stop.
DIAGNOSIS:
In order to determine if the popping/clicking/snapping/ticking sound is coming from the
front hub/half shaft interface, perform the following procedure:
1. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist and remove both front wheels.
2. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, and wave washer from the end of both front half
shafts.
3. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen both half shaft nuts
to zero torque.
4. With the service brake applied, shift the vehicle from Drive to Reverse and Reverse to
Drive. Once the transmission is engaged in gear, raise the engine speed to 1800 rpm.
5. If the sound is not present, perform the Repair Procedure. If the sound is still present,
the source of the sound is elsewhere. Further diagnosis is required.
SRT4 Differential Assembly
Part Numbers:
05127732A$
Issue Description:
1). Chatter from front tires when turning, only occurs at low speed when starting out in 1st gear, OK in straight line
2.) tapping, grinding, chatter noise from transaxle when turning, only occurs at low speed when starting out in 1st gear, OK in straight line.
SUBJECT:
Sunroof Vents But Will Not Open/Close
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves disassembling and reassembling the sunroof mechanism **and
possibly replacing the locker slide(s).**.
MODELS:
**2000** - 2005 (PL) Neon/SRT4
NOTE:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The sunroof may go to vent and close but will not go to open or the sunroof goes to vent
position but will not close or open. These Symptoms occur after the sunroof has been
operated at fast highway speeds which applies force to the sunroof mechanism and
causes it to go “over-center” and bind usually on one side but could be both sides.
A/c:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicle operators may experience a musty odor from the A/C system, primarily at
start up in hot and humid climates. This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the
cooling coil. During normal A/C system operation, condensation forms in and around the
A/C cooling coil. When airborne pollutants mix with this condensation, bacteria and fungi
growth begins and odor results.
thats just a few.....don't want ot be here lal day.....pulled those off my our techocnnect site
but wait....don't listen to me.....remember i just work on them...i don't own one so my information doesn't mean shyt right
------ douche bags....
oh and just so you kno.....reading about problems and actually dealing with them are two seperate thing Stevenb........u can think all u want about something just becaue u read about it.....but i kno first hand that these have alot of problems......
oh and here are a few TSB's related to ur year srt ur looking at "
Front Seal, Pump 2.4L
Part Numbers:
04667198
04884390A$
Issue Description:
If the front crankshaft seal is popped/pushed out measure the crankshaft end play. If the end play is out specification please see the STAR online case # K93016699 for recommended repair procedure.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicle may exhibit a popping/clicking/snapping/ticking sound from the front hub/half shaft
area during acceleration after Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive shifts. The sound may
also be present while turning and accelerating from a stop.
DIAGNOSIS:
In order to determine if the popping/clicking/snapping/ticking sound is coming from the
front hub/half shaft interface, perform the following procedure:
1. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist and remove both front wheels.
2. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, and wave washer from the end of both front half
shafts.
3. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen both half shaft nuts
to zero torque.
4. With the service brake applied, shift the vehicle from Drive to Reverse and Reverse to
Drive. Once the transmission is engaged in gear, raise the engine speed to 1800 rpm.
5. If the sound is not present, perform the Repair Procedure. If the sound is still present,
the source of the sound is elsewhere. Further diagnosis is required.
SRT4 Differential Assembly
Part Numbers:
05127732A$
Issue Description:
1). Chatter from front tires when turning, only occurs at low speed when starting out in 1st gear, OK in straight line
2.) tapping, grinding, chatter noise from transaxle when turning, only occurs at low speed when starting out in 1st gear, OK in straight line.
SUBJECT:
Sunroof Vents But Will Not Open/Close
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves disassembling and reassembling the sunroof mechanism **and
possibly replacing the locker slide(s).**.
MODELS:
**2000** - 2005 (PL) Neon/SRT4
NOTE:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The sunroof may go to vent and close but will not go to open or the sunroof goes to vent
position but will not close or open. These Symptoms occur after the sunroof has been
operated at fast highway speeds which applies force to the sunroof mechanism and
causes it to go “over-center” and bind usually on one side but could be both sides.
A/c:
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicle operators may experience a musty odor from the A/C system, primarily at
start up in hot and humid climates. This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the
cooling coil. During normal A/C system operation, condensation forms in and around the
A/C cooling coil. When airborne pollutants mix with this condensation, bacteria and fungi
growth begins and odor results.
thats just a few.....don't want ot be here lal day.....pulled those off my our techocnnect site
but wait....don't listen to me.....remember i just work on them...i don't own one so my information doesn't mean shyt right
------ douche bags....
