Jorsher

Ok, some of you may remember that 95 teg I got for $500. It's finally in the driveway and should be drivable this weekend. Here's one I should be picking up Monday or Tuesday for $2250:

UPDATE:

Ok, so I got the thing today. Of course I've found some ---- that's wrong with it but I'm pretty satisfied with the purchase... Feels weird driving this thing, so touchy. It really seems like I can "feel" the lightness of the car. Anyway, pictures (and questions):


First look at that ---- Doug684 wrote, punkass. Hah, $2500 firm...I paid $2200 The red circled crap, some sort of glue or epoxy. It seems like they glued a spoiler there Any ideas on removal? It's like cement...


Shiny Can I paint the hood with some gloss spray paint and rattlecan clearcoat? Will it turn out alright and somewhat match the car? The hood is a primer greyish/black with some splotches of yellow shining through (AAAAHHHH YELLOW ). That bumper has to go, it was...nogger...rigged. The front end damage wasn't nearly as bad as I thought and how the previous picture made it seem. Might be a fraction of an inch pushed in, and the rad support is a little bent. I have to turn the wheel slightly to the right to go straight...but it doesn't veer off anywhere when I let go. How do I adjust this?? It's an annoyance and I'm OCD.


The ***. Notice the glue spots. It came with some turbo exhaust that sounds decent and doesn't drone when I'm cruising, only when I gets all up ons it. Finally put those wheels and tires to use, bought them months ago and put on the civic, which hasn't ran since before I got them. I need to finish putting on the head lol.


Decent condition. I love the seats, and they're probably in the best condition out of all the interior. There's a gap between the plastic around the shifter, and the plastic around the ebrake. It doesn't look right because I can see the metal and carpet sticking out, it's about a 4-6" gap between the two pieces. What's missing or wrong with it?





What's good for getting the old plastics back to their shiny darkness (tha darkness! charlie murphy!)? Is there a piece that's supposed to go over those compartments? And if so...who's got one in great condition for sale?


Clean. But alas, what's that yellow in there...


w00t. Free stuff. Strut bar thingy and some neuspeed springs. I don't know ---- about suspension so someone tell me if those springs are good and if that's an ebay special strut bar thing (not that I care, just curious). Free p28 too, I think not chipped Will be great for when sini sells me his turbo kit


This is the driver side door hinge He didn't tell me about this little problem. Looks like the uhh... hinge thing popped out and they slapped a bunch of bondo over it to try and hold it in, and that also popped off. Weld? Who would weld something like this? I don't have a welder or know anyone with one around here...


Finally, here's that picture for whoever asked for a closeup. The guy glued that carbon fiber (wow tyte seems like real cf) piece to the console...yes, glued . Anything good to get rid of glue? Doesn't even look like he tried to make it look decent, I think I used glue better when I was eating it in kindergarten. Titanium shift **** (seems like real titanium and has that sexy anodizedish looking look) and some autometer gauges that are still hooked up. My car is always showing rich (I know these aren't very useful, but anyways it shows rich) which brings me to the main question...

So I drove the car. For the first few hundred rpm, it'll seem peppy, then QUICKLY seem weak. I'm talking about bogging to hell, even at 10% throttle. The afr gauge stays in rich, never gets to stoich. Since the car is NA, I'm assuming it should be stoich, right? I guess the car might run rich while it's warming up, but this stays rich all the time. It seems to smell rich. It doesn't sound right. Before I bought the car, I looked through HT at the guy's threads just to see if I could get some background on the car. He posted once that his mileage was HORRIBLE and his goal was 30mpg. He said he was selling it because of financial reasons...but now he's driving a 99-00 civic ex...so I'm thinking he sold it because he couldn't figure out what the problem is and he delivers pizza for his job. Oh, and he also said it smokes at high rpm...so I'm hoping it's just the richness...so I can boost this damn thing without extra work.

So here's what I'm thinking: When I helped doug684 change his timing belt, we put it all back together and it ran similarly. Very weak, sounded weird, and bad mileage. Timing belt was a tooth off. Does this sound like a timing issue with yous guys as well?

J-SMITH69

2250

HondaTuner

That'd be a steal here.

Jorsher

Yeah I felt lucky.

BTW it's a 1990 CRX SI. It had a d16y8 swap I'm guessing turbo because of guages and he said engine was "tired" when he got the car. Now it has a d16z6 with y8 head. He said vtec doesn't work and it burns a little oil, but I don't give a damn. Might do a cheap cheap HMT FTW turbo build on it.

TittyBoy

Was it wrecked in the front or something?

TittyBoy

n.m i see now i should read more , but yeah that ---- does look bent, just get a new rad. support and weld it in

hondarex2323

do you have any more pics of the gauges below the cd player i was thinking about putting a boost gauge and a A/F gauge in the lil area..

Jorsher

Even though the car is in my city, I'm not able to get it until next Monday or Tuesday. I'll post more pics then.

tittyboy - where could I take the car to get one welded in for cheap? Can they do it at an exhaust shop or what?

nonvtec

reactone

Sadly, that would also be a pretty good price for that car up here, damage included.