fork

Yeah Rpm and shock is what makes them come apart.
My friends father KNEW someone who was killed by a scattered flywheel.
I've never seen one with an aluminum friction surface, and that would be ridiculous.
Make sure he uses something substatial to hold the three pieces together, my freind broke the ring gear off of a cluchmasters aluminum flywheel 3 ------- times, because they only use 3 little button head screws.

robs99si

only **** heads will say that. the only thing i see that sucks about a lightenned flywheel is it becomes more dificult for daily driving since you have to rev higher to engage the clutch from a stop. but lightenned flywheels own3 oem flywheels when it comes to performance. especially with boost. the revs are go high so fast, it's gonna be difficult to keep the car out of redline in 1st and 2nd gear.

87na_rx7

i want an aluminum f/w for my car, the stocker is almost 40 lbs

kain

nah, ill stick with my stock one.

CDN Y-49 CRX

The responses to this post are very helpful, and do shed some light on a topic I was looking to learn more about. After reading your posts and doing some late night surfing, I 'm gonna suggest to him its not worth it. The man-hours alone would put the price far over that of the flywheels currently on the market.

Although he is a damn good machinist, when safety is an issue I think he should leave it to the pros.

Thanks for the input!

95RedEX

The idea is that when you push the clutch in, the RPMs drop like a rock where a stock flywheel wouldn't as fast. Something to do with keeping the turbo spooled and PSI up. I don't think it matters 100% but I guess that's the theory.

slowcivic

not the way i drive

CDN Y-49 CRX

Ok here goes, I talked to him today, and got the highlights on the flywheels.

First, yes a scattershield is reccomended.

Now the tech stuff:
Materials:
They are machined out of 6061 t6 aircraft aluminum billet. The friction surface is made from 4140 steel. with a tensile strength of 125,000. Compared to clutch masters who uses a 44w material with a tensile strenght of approx 70,000.

Manufacturing process:
Once the aluminum is machined, there is a .050 quench fit used to seat the ring gear and steel insert. To add to that, the friction surface is also bolted to the flywheel with 16 countersunk grade 10 bolts.

Most flywheel companies rely on only bolting the ring gear and friction surface to the flywheel. By using a quench fit method, the two metals are virtually inseperable even without the bolts.

The finished product is then sent to a balancing shop where they balance it up to 10,000 rpm.

I was told today that the 7mgte supra with oversized turbo, a nos fogger system and some engine internals along with fuel management puts out just shy of 500hp to the flywheel. Since he used this car for over a year of track and street abuse with the aluminum flywheel, I tend to believe that they will be safe.

I was actually really surprised that he had done so much research on the safe manufacturing of this part, but he is an absolute perfectionist.

So I hope this answers all your questions, but for right now, he only building three or four of these for a few local racers. who knows, I might try one.

accordepicenter

ive also heard the same with grey iron pressure plates with high clamp loads spun over 7000 rpm or so, explosion prone.. I guess im safe (hope) double diaphram grey iron pp 6800 rpm rev limiter. As for people who have driveability problems with a lightweight flywheel, simply become a better driver, it really isnt that tough, but it is harder to drive than a stock car (who cares). I wouldnt risk using a lightened stock flywheel, get somthing properly designed so it doesnt fly through the car and rip your head off.