Reliable Amount Of Power on Stock D16Y8 with Boost?
#1
Reliable Amount Of Power on Stock D16Y8 with Boost?
So i am boosting my D16Y8 and im going to shoot for 200whp. I've got a T18 turbo and will probably be pushing 8-10psi. Just want to get some on input on if my stock internals will be able to handle that power/boost safely as this is just a fun daily driver and i plan on driving it all the time. I've looked around and have found a lot of different info on what is a safe amount of hp/boost to run. Any input helps. Thanks in advance.
#2
You should be fine if you don't go over 200whp and 8-10lbs is right about where you want to be.
Make sure you get a good tune.
Personally, I would replace the Rods and crank. A6 rods and crank are a little stronger and the crank has dual oiling holes, so it's much less **** to spinning bearings.
Also a set of ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oiling gap, instead of oem 1/2''.
Swapping your wiring from OBD-2 to OBD-1 give you greater tune-ability.
y8' have an inferior water pump, which contributes to spinning bearings. Only after swapping to OBD-1 can you run a Z6 oil pump, which is much more reliable.
Last, but definitely not least, the head bolts/studs. This is the crucial point of stress. It's highly advised on most every D16 Turbo thread out there to install ARP head studs, they are a good cost effective ($100-$130) assurance.
The head gasket is a common misconception. No, you don't need a Cometic MLS head gasket. Any quality MLS will do. Don't install a graphite gasket and you'll be fine.
So, that's my advise. Hope your build goes well.
Here's what I run in my crx:
D16Z6 Block/Head
Chipped 28 ECU
D15Z1 -16 dished Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods (had to notch the block)
ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oil gap
King Rod bearingspiston rings
NPR Piston rings
Fel-Pro MLS Head gasket
ARP head studs
D16A6 main drive pulley (Heavy as hell and yes, has built in damper)
DSM 560cc Injectors
P20 Hydro trans w/ LSD
Re-surfaced OEM Flywheel (stock weight = more inertia that helps hold boost longer)
Yonaka Stage-3 6-Puck clutc
Fresh build. Running a kkk k26 t3 Turbo @ 13psi. Good so far.
Make sure you get a good tune.
Personally, I would replace the Rods and crank. A6 rods and crank are a little stronger and the crank has dual oiling holes, so it's much less **** to spinning bearings.
Also a set of ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oiling gap, instead of oem 1/2''.
Swapping your wiring from OBD-2 to OBD-1 give you greater tune-ability.
y8' have an inferior water pump, which contributes to spinning bearings. Only after swapping to OBD-1 can you run a Z6 oil pump, which is much more reliable.
Last, but definitely not least, the head bolts/studs. This is the crucial point of stress. It's highly advised on most every D16 Turbo thread out there to install ARP head studs, they are a good cost effective ($100-$130) assurance.
The head gasket is a common misconception. No, you don't need a Cometic MLS head gasket. Any quality MLS will do. Don't install a graphite gasket and you'll be fine.
So, that's my advise. Hope your build goes well.
Here's what I run in my crx:
D16Z6 Block/Head
Chipped 28 ECU
D15Z1 -16 dished Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods (had to notch the block)
ACL Race main bearings w/ 3/4'' oil gap
King Rod bearingspiston rings
NPR Piston rings
Fel-Pro MLS Head gasket
ARP head studs
D16A6 main drive pulley (Heavy as hell and yes, has built in damper)
DSM 560cc Injectors
P20 Hydro trans w/ LSD
Re-surfaced OEM Flywheel (stock weight = more inertia that helps hold boost longer)
Yonaka Stage-3 6-Puck clutc
Fresh build. Running a kkk k26 t3 Turbo @ 13psi. Good so far.
#3
Ok ya i got my car tuned to 190whp. I've converted to OBD1 (P28 w/hondata s300). So does that mean that i can just switch directly over to a z6 oil pump with no issues or is there something i have to do in order to swap my Y8 oil pump for a Z6?
Oh and maybe a stupid question but can a swap out the rod bearings by just taking off the oil pan unbolting the rod and then swap out the bearings?
Oh and maybe a stupid question but can a swap out the rod bearings by just taking off the oil pan unbolting the rod and then swap out the bearings?
#4
Ok ya i got my car tuned to 190whp. I've converted to OBD1 (P28 w/hondata s300). So does that mean that i can just switch directly over to a z6 oil pump with no issues or is there something i have to do in order to swap my Y8 oil pump for a Z6?
Oh and maybe a stupid question but can a swap out the rod bearings by just taking off the oil pan unbolting the rod and then swap out the bearings?
Oh and maybe a stupid question but can a swap out the rod bearings by just taking off the oil pan unbolting the rod and then swap out the bearings?
If you have an OBD-2 harness, with an OBD-2 to OBD-1 Jumper, then you have to rewire the oil-pressure sensor clip, with an OBD-1 clip.
Yes, you can. I've done that before. Lawl. You have to unbolt the block cradle too, ofcourse. Not a big deal actually.
Last edited by PsykoZakko; 01-09-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#5
Ok, now i when i was researching the oil pump issues. I found write ups on guys porting and shimming the stock pump. I found that a lot of people said that you should have around 80-90psi oil pressure around 3000rpm when it is shimmed. HOwever my pump has that 80-90psi without a shim. Would i be better to just port the stock pump then?
#6
Hey, If it's not broke why fix it?
If your running 80-90psi, then (If I'm right) you dont want to increase much.
I think shimming the pump would be pointless, since your already just fine.
Are you sure it isn't swapped to a D16Z6 Pump?
How many wires does the sensor have?
If your running 80-90psi, then (If I'm right) you dont want to increase much.
I think shimming the pump would be pointless, since your already just fine.
Are you sure it isn't swapped to a D16Z6 Pump?
How many wires does the sensor have?
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