pwning123

I have a 98 Honda civic EX and has a stock D16Y8 stock internals and wanted to know how much boost I can take it up to?!? The turbo I have is garret T25 and I have an OBD1 chiped ECU from phearable.net

lionelw350

i've been running 10lbs on my D16Y8, but i would highly recommend putting in ARP headstuds with any boost over 7lbs. Its just cheap insurance, around 100$ compared to blowing a head gasket is kind of a no brainer and they are not hard to put in at all.

Also you will only be able to run about 10psi on the stock MAP sensor. When it comes to stock internals, just doing a google search you will find guys that have made around 230whp or more but thats getting pretty close to the limit of the stock internals from what i have found. With 94 octane and a good tune with 10psi of boost you should be able to get 200whp safely (as long as its a good tune!) and it will definitely be a fun car to drive.

I am running 190whp and my car pulls strong and haven't had a problem with it yet.

pwning123

Alright thanks for the info....is there a DIY out there for installing the head studs?

lionelw350

go on to google and search something like "D16Y8 arp headstud install" you will definitely find it. When i did mine i loosened them all like a half turn in the proper sequence. then i went back and loosened them all a bit more in the proper sequence again. After that i took one out at a time and replaced with the arp one. make sure to put lube on the head end first before you put it in. And you will need a 12 point socket, i think its a 12mm.

lionelw350

arp also gives some instructions when you order a set, just make sure you follow what they say and you will be just fine.

PsykoZakko

You should be fine on 10lbs, but definitely get the ARP head studs.
Keep in mind that D16Y8's, Turbo'd on stock internals are prone to spinning bearings.
The Oil pumps are inferior to Z6 pumps, which is the main reason Y8's tend to spin bearings under boost.
Since you already run OBD-1, it would be easy and beneficial to install an oil pump from a D16Z6, if you haven't already. Just throwing that out there.
Another issue that can be easily addressed, is the factory main bearings. They have a 1/2" oiler gap, which is not effective for safely running boost. You can upgrade to ACL Race bearings w/ 3/4" Oiler gap, for $60. It's cost effective assurance.
Another thing is the head gasket. An OEM head gasket, properly installed will be fine with the amount of boost you're talking about. Make sure it's an MLS gasket. install a graphite gasket and kiss the top-end goodbye.
Garrett T25 is perfect for your application. Sounds like a good build

PsykoZakko

Let me add something else.
Pick up a D16A6 Crankshaft and Rods, if you can. The A6 Rods can handle more power and the Crank has dual oiling holes.
To answer the actual question: It's not the actual amount of Boost you're looking at, it's The HP. I would not take stock Y8 Rods over 220hp, on a good tune. You're safer with the A6 rods, but still you have to be careful. In terms of Boost, you're looking at 8-10lbs, maybe a touch more on A6 rods.