91SiSEZC

I posted this msg in the hybrid section and have had no bites. I am running a 14b on a ZC, 450's, zdyne gold, stock ignition. My question is what would cause an ignition coil to blow? I blew the first one about 6-8 months ago, I just figured it was due to its age. I just blew the new coil a couple of days ago. I have since replaced the burnt coil but I do not want to blow this one. Have any of you incountered this problem?? What could cause something like this?? When I took off the distributer cap, there was a bunch of white ---- all inside. The coil had a nice big burn mark on it...

quadnie

Please go into more detail on the condition of the distributor, you said "white ----" is it like water marks = water leaking into the coil and shorting it out.

Have you checked up on all the connectors and grounds? Bad grounds/connections will cause the coil to strain extra hard and too much load will eventually kill it.

I have some suggestions for you (sorry I didn't see your post in the hybrid section - not yet at least, else I would have answered):

Get every connection and ground wire and clean them up with a fine metal brush or pencil eraser. Make sure to clean off any corosion/rust, file the contacts down if necessary. Next coat the ---- out of everything with dielectric grease (tune up grease).

If you look at my motor below, anything that is making a ground contact has been ground down to bare metal then coated in dielectric grease to aid in contact and prevent rustage of the bare metal.

Another thing you can do to check up the status of your coil is chech the resistance of the posts. Get the ohm readings from a few new coils (they will let you play with in the auto parts store), write it down and compare yours, this is oldschool for testing to see if a junkyard coil is good or not. Not going to solve your problems, but might give you a heads up on a coil that's about to go bad.

Let me know if I can help any more.

-Ryan

RENR

^^^^ ya what he said. i had the same problem on my accord. i kept blowing coils every six month. turned out the whole distributor was fucked. i kept changing the coil, i replacedthe ignitor, nothing worked. i replaced the entire thing and it hasnt given me problems since. turns out the shaft in the case had some serious play.

quadnie

Ya know, I completely forgot about how fucked up honda distributors are. I was just giving basic "try and fix your ---- this way" advice, I forgot that honda distributors don't last the life of the vehcile (as compared to a nice pre '85 sbc Chevy HEI dizzy).

So yeah dude, pull your distributor off and check the shaft out, could be tost, I'm parting out a d16z6 fairly soon, let me know if you need parts - PM me.

-Ryan

91SiSEZC

The white ---- was from the coil frying I guess... I doubt it was due to water, everything is nice and tight. For my grounds, they are new. I pulled and rebuilt the engine before going turbo. Over this last winter I went over the grounds, so they shouldnt be a problem. I know there is still a problem because my dancing light gauge leans out under high boost. My fuel pressure gauge is bang on though, so it has to be ignition related. I was thinking it could be the ignitor... But thanks to you guys, I will check the distributor first. The shaft should not move in any direction right -- I've never messed around with distributors before. Also if it is the distributor, which one will fit a ZC??

91SiSEZC

I checked out my distributor and there was no shaft play whatsoever.... I think my next course of action will be to replace the ignitor. Hopefully that will work, I'll be able to tell if my dancing light gauge stays on rich when I punch it.

quadnie

Cool man, good luck - keep us posted. Sorry I can't give you every answer you need on honda dizzys, if you ever need help on a chevy hei, let me know.

91SiSEZC

No prob, appreciate the help. As for chevy's, I dont have a clue

91SiSEZC

Well here is an update, I have now changed my ignitor and there is still no change in the dancing light gauge. I still lean out. I dont know what would be causing this. Ever since I relocated my battery to the back, I've been having problems. Do you guys think that the 4 gauge wire would be causing this problem?? Should I increase to 2 gauge? I am lost and dont know where to begin looking.

bpeterson

It very well may have been a defective ignition coil wire?
But it also could be the ignition module that may have a poor internal connection for the coil driver.
A coil driver is an electronic switch inside the module that turns the primary ignition coil circuits on and off, every time a coil needs to fire.
If this is a connection problem at or inside the module; that would explain why the car ran ok for a week and the started to act up again.