Forced Induction Custom FI Setup Questions

Blow off valve not making sound

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Old 06-29-2010, 12:42 PM
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I tested my BOV on my frenz's car today n my BOV seem to work perfectly.I doubt it is caused by some leakage in between my intercooler piping.Jz incase if i have a gauge for d vacuum can i know wat shud be d reading will be shown on d vacuum gauge?Sorry as i'm totally new to turbocharging n not really familiar with vacuum reading i shud get on my car n tq so much 4 d great help n advise SlowSL as i really appreciate it coz indirectly i get to learn how to solve tis prob.TQ bro
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Old 06-29-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by d16egturbo
I tested my BOV on my frenz's car today n my BOV seem to work perfectly.I doubt it is caused by some leakage in between my intercooler piping.Jz incase if i have a gauge for d vacuum can i know wat shud be d reading will be shown on d vacuum gauge?Sorry as i'm totally new to turbocharging n not really familiar with vacuum reading i shud get on my car n tq so much 4 d great help n advise SlowSL as i really appreciate it coz indirectly i get to learn how to solve tis prob.TQ bro
I wouldn't count out a leak somewhere, I get them here and there out of the blue. A vacuum gauge will do you no good. For one, the car will need to be running, and you cannot hear any air leaking w/ a noisy engine, #2, any leaks will barely show anything on a vacuum gauge, if any. You need a boost gauge, which I don't think I'm going out on a limb to say that one would almost be mandatory on a boosted engine so you know exactly what psi you are set to and not to overboost your engine. Just watching a boost gauge is not good enough to find leaks... of course if your boost falls off sharply, you have a huge leak.
The correct way to do this is called a pressure test. what you need is an air compressor w/ a regulator, regulated to a safe pressure, say about 10-12psi for example. You need to plug/cap any hoses for example going to EGR, recirculation, crank vent, etc. Now, with all extra hoses clamped/capped/plugged, you should plug the hose that goes into the throttle body. What works decent for this is a heavy duty trash bag. You can multi-layer it and slide it inbetween the coupler & throttle body, then plug in the coupler and tighten it down. This blocks air from traveling into the cylinder and leaking out the exhaust valves. I don't know about your motor, but on mine there are always valves that are open in any rotation of the crank, yours may be different. Now, you need to plug the intake, if you popl off your air filter you may have a circular or oval entrance. What you can do is take a piece of wood and carve/cut and grind it down to fit into the intake pipe and clamp it down. Now you have your piping plugged everywhere. Now, you need to plug in your air hose into your system somehow. I use a barbed end on my air hose and just plug it into one of the vacuum lines. W/ your regulator set, your system now fills w/ air and gets pressurized. If there are any leaks, you will hear them. If you increase pressure, the leaks get louder and you can fix them that way. Now you can remove the plastic bag at the throttle body, and even though air may be escaping through the valves, you can put your ear down, or a sensitive string, or your hand down near your plenum/lower plenum, throttle body, etc. to see if there are any major leaks there. It is more difficult to find these because the air leaking through the valves can be loud.
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