2008 Daewoo Matiz Turbo by Boost Freaks
02-22-2014, 06:51 AM
#13
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
So, after just several hundred km's my fancy HKS SSQV just died, unable to open at all; all I could hear was turbo surge.
Vacuum lines were fine, boost gauge ran great, so the BOV was opened only to find, in the dead center of it, an itsy bitsy tiny miny check valve that was the most probable cause of pressure leak (I didn't get any pictures, but its just a little piece of circular rubber, thin as one could get, with a nipple on one side and a diameter so small that you could barely hold it with two fingers).
And since getting another BOV is just out of the question for now, it was fixed in true HMT style: we glued it shut with some black silicone paste, put the whole thing back together, tested with a vacuum pump and now it seems to work just fine.
Now I'm leaving it alone for some time so that the whole mess will solidify inside and I'm putting it back on in the next days and go for a test drive. What that means though is that I've had to limp home without the BOV (it was supposed to be a 2 minute drive and it turned into 10
), car would die at idle due to overfueling and put out some nasty shocks while attempting to maintain speed. Not to mention I had to switch gears every 10km/h. It was not fun at all.
P.S: I think monday I'll get some pictures to show the boost limiter on the internal wastegate
.
Vacuum lines were fine, boost gauge ran great, so the BOV was opened only to find, in the dead center of it, an itsy bitsy tiny miny check valve that was the most probable cause of pressure leak (I didn't get any pictures, but its just a little piece of circular rubber, thin as one could get, with a nipple on one side and a diameter so small that you could barely hold it with two fingers).
And since getting another BOV is just out of the question for now, it was fixed in true HMT style: we glued it shut with some black silicone paste, put the whole thing back together, tested with a vacuum pump and now it seems to work just fine.
Now I'm leaving it alone for some time so that the whole mess will solidify inside and I'm putting it back on in the next days and go for a test drive. What that means though is that I've had to limp home without the BOV (it was supposed to be a 2 minute drive and it turned into 10
), car would die at idle due to overfueling and put out some nasty shocks while attempting to maintain speed. Not to mention I had to switch gears every 10km/h. It was not fun at all.P.S: I think monday I'll get some pictures to show the boost limiter on the internal wastegate
.
Last edited by Regen; 02-22-2014 at 06:54 AM.
08-02-2014, 08:36 AM
#15
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
The clutch is ready!
I've bought a stock kit and sent it to be modified. The pressure plate now has more clamping force and the clutch disc has been upgraded to ceramic. The flywheel was not modified.
Install should be made at the end of the month (along with some other little upgrades), as for now I'm heading out of town on vacation.
I've bought a stock kit and sent it to be modified. The pressure plate now has more clamping force and the clutch disc has been upgraded to ceramic. The flywheel was not modified.
Install should be made at the end of the month (along with some other little upgrades), as for now I'm heading out of town on vacation.
08-06-2014, 01:50 AM
#16
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Uzbekistan
Posts: 5
Hi guys,
So this is my first completed turbo project and I thought I´d also document it on a foreign forum, because I´ve sincerely wished someone had done it before, I would have been spared a lot of trial and error.
Basically, base car would be like this:
Engine is a 3 cyl 796 cc, 6 valves, 9.3-1 compression ratio, spurting out a hefty 48bhp and 68 NM of torque. So yeah, it´s a very slow stock car, however it´s a city car so it wasn´t meant to ever be fast.
Why turbo it, you ask? Well, besides the obvious answer ¨Why not?¨, it´s also a very light car to start with (900 kgs with driver and fuel), has very short gear ratios and runs 13 inch wheels, ingredients for good acceleration even if the end power is not big.
For now, here are some pics pre-turbo:
Suspension: SPAX sport springs (30 mm drop) and Kayaba Excel-G shocks, exhaust and some general design (I´ve since then sold the wheels because even if they looked good, the material was weak and they would bend very easily).
More info later on.
So this is my first completed turbo project and I thought I´d also document it on a foreign forum, because I´ve sincerely wished someone had done it before, I would have been spared a lot of trial and error.
Basically, base car would be like this:
Engine is a 3 cyl 796 cc, 6 valves, 9.3-1 compression ratio, spurting out a hefty 48bhp and 68 NM of torque. So yeah, it´s a very slow stock car, however it´s a city car so it wasn´t meant to ever be fast.
Why turbo it, you ask? Well, besides the obvious answer ¨Why not?¨, it´s also a very light car to start with (900 kgs with driver and fuel), has very short gear ratios and runs 13 inch wheels, ingredients for good acceleration even if the end power is not big.
For now, here are some pics pre-turbo:
Suspension: SPAX sport springs (30 mm drop) and Kayaba Excel-G shocks, exhaust and some general design (I´ve since then sold the wheels because even if they looked good, the material was weak and they would bend very easily).
More info later on.
http://img.drivenn.ru/637/162/637162...b662/image.jpg
12-21-2014, 12:32 PM
#18
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
The new clutch is right on target and it also handles pretty well in city traffic.
Next round of mods is right around the corner: oil catch tank, bigger fuel pump and injectors, upgraded MAP sensor...so I can up the boost a little bit .
Also as part of the next round of mods I plan to install a cold air intake for the car. Not for added power, but I want to lower the intake temps during idle in hot ambient temperatures (summer where I live gets unbearable sometimes).
It wasn't an issue before, but due to the layout of the exhaust manifold and the placement of the turbo, it sucks in air at some insane temps during summer (I haven't measured it, but the hood gets so hot that you can't even place a hand on it).
The obvious position for the air filter would be inside the bumper and it will be done by welding the piece of pipe on which the filter stands directly to the car via some kind of fabricated mount. After that a hole will be drilled to accommodate piping towards the turbo.
Length should be more about 30-40 cm so the best connecting solution would be a flexible intake hose. Question is, what kind of material should it be. Any opinions? (I'll probably order something from ebay but I don't know what type of tube to choose...)
Next round of mods is right around the corner: oil catch tank, bigger fuel pump and injectors, upgraded MAP sensor...so I can up the boost a little bit
.Also as part of the next round of mods I plan to install a cold air intake for the car. Not for added power, but I want to lower the intake temps during idle in hot ambient temperatures (summer where I live gets unbearable sometimes).
It wasn't an issue before, but due to the layout of the exhaust manifold and the placement of the turbo, it sucks in air at some insane temps during summer (I haven't measured it, but the hood gets so hot that you can't even place a hand on it).
The obvious position for the air filter would be inside the bumper and it will be done by welding the piece of pipe on which the filter stands directly to the car via some kind of fabricated mount. After that a hole will be drilled to accommodate piping towards the turbo.
Length should be more about 30-40 cm so the best connecting solution would be a flexible intake hose. Question is, what kind of material should it be. Any opinions? (I'll probably order something from ebay but I don't know what type of tube to choose...)
Last edited by Regen; 12-21-2014 at 12:36 PM.
01-19-2015, 09:01 AM
#19
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Europe
Posts: 25
Nice little racer you built there, congrats *thumb up*
I see that you took a diesel-turbo. As far as I know these turbos are not build for the higher exhaust temperatures a petrol engine produces, and therefore these turbos are not water cooled. If you could source a water cooled T2 turbo of a petrol car it would probably be longer lasting and give you colder intake temps as well.
Greetings and happy boosting
*thumb up*I see that you took a diesel-turbo. As far as I know these turbos are not build for the higher exhaust temperatures a petrol engine produces, and therefore these turbos are not water cooled. If you could source a water cooled T2 turbo of a petrol car it would probably be longer lasting and give you colder intake temps as well.
Greetings and happy boosting
02-11-2015, 11:22 AM
#20
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
Thanks man!
The donor car was very old, my mechanic assures me this type of old generation turbo can withstand the temps of a petrol engine, especially since I'm running low boost. There were no issues so far with the turbo. Moreso, by May i'm planning to rebuild it profesionally into a hybrid and get as near as possible to 100 engine hp on stock internals. And I'm not calling it a racer until it survives a track day , but I'll need a few more upgrades for that So far it has survived a drag weekend
So stay tuned, 2015 will bring new stuff for this 0.8 liter beast
The donor car was very old, my mechanic assures me this type of old generation turbo can withstand the temps of a petrol engine, especially since I'm running low boost. There were no issues so far with the turbo. Moreso, by May i'm planning to rebuild it profesionally into a hybrid and get as near as possible to 100 engine hp on stock internals. And I'm not calling it a racer until it survives a track day , but I'll need a few more upgrades for that
So far it has survived a drag weekend So stay tuned, 2015 will bring new stuff for this 0.8 liter beast
Last edited by Regen; 02-11-2015 at 11:35 AM.
